Highlights : Suertes del Marqués 2017 Vidonia

From Tenerife’s volcanic soils, and organically farmed old-vine Listán Blanco at 350-450m, this mineral-driven blend was native fermented in neutral 500 L oak casks, before spending another 11 months rest there. Finely textured, with a beautiful salt wash livening herbal lees flicked with flint, lemon rind and broken stones. A bracing grip of salted pear brackets the sides of this moreish white. Not about fruit at all, but entirely about place and time. A stunning, singular wine now in youth, and with ages to go. 93/100

Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]