Highlights: Ganevat Orégane 2015

This is such a remarkable wine, but that’s what you’d expect from Jean-François Ganevat’s domaine wines. It’s a blend of 50% Chardonnay, 50% Savagnin from vines planted in the 1970s on mark soils. Two years élevage with topping up, but no added sulfites.

Jean-François Ganevat Cuvée Orégane Assemblage 2015 Côtes du Jura, France
14% alcohol. This is powerful and intense with a rich slightly oily edge to the intense citrus fruit. It has an amazing finish that just keeps going with a persistent thread of spicy minerality. Such a cascade of intense citrus flavours with nuts and amazing saline, stony notes. There are also some richer elements: honey and nuts and ripe apples. Concentrated and profound. 95/100

£85 on the list at the excellent La Trompette.

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