Longaví’s ‘Glup’: superb wines from the south of Chile

Longaví is a collaboration between David Nieuwoudt from South Africa and Julio Bouchon of Chile. The wines come from the south of the country – regions where there are still lots of old vine, dry farmed vineyards. These had been forgotten in the rush to modern styles of wines from glamorous international varieties, but now – with more sympathetic winemaking and the realisation that wines don’t have to be international in style – people are beginning to make some very exciting wines here. Longavi started off making other sorts of wines, but with this Glup range, I reckon they have nailed it. They are really good, and although they aren’t in the UK yet, the wines would be able to hit some attractive price points, sub £20 by quite a bit. They are all excellent.

Longavi Glup Chenin Blanc 2020 Maule, Chile
13% alcohol. This is fermented in 700 litre amphora on skins, then aged 6 months off the skins in the same amphora. It’s understated and mineral with a stony, almost clay-like edge to the bright linear lemon and pear fruit. There’s good acidity here, and the fruit is very pure. It’s all about the fine-grained stony texture sitting under the fruit with a hint of mint on the finish. It’s a wine that repays attention. 93/100

Longavi Glup Naranjo 2019 Itata, Chile
13% alcohol. Steeply sloped parcel, 60 year old vines, granitic soils. Six months on skins in concrete tanks, then 4 months in old French barrels. This is intensely floral with lovely exotic grape, tangerine and passionfruit notes. The palate is fresh and tangy, with citrus peel and table grape notes, a hint of mint, and lovely fruity terpenic character. There’s a bit of tannic grip, but it’s so well managed, and a slight pithy bitterness. A lovely, fresh, pure, detailed wine. So drinkable. 93/100

Longavi Glup Rosado 2019 Maule, Chile
This comes from centenarian bush vines of Grenache, Mouvedre and Pais grown on decomposed granitic soils. It’s fermented in stainless steel then aged for 8 months in used French oak. This is a red/pink in colour, and it is beautifully fresh, fine and elegant. There’s a real lightness and transparency to it, with flavours of cherries, cranberries and ripe citrus, as well as some subtle sappy notes. Has a beautiful mouthfeel: there’s something very special about this elegant, balanced rosé. 94/100

Longavi Glup País 2019 Secano Interior, Bio Bio, Chile
12.5% alcohol. From 100+ year old vines near the Bio Bio river. Fermented in open tanks then aged in old barrels. Supple, bright and fresh with juicy cherry and raspberry fruit and some herbal hints. Has a bit of grippy tannin and keen acidity. A lighter red but with some substance. Has a slight reductive edge which makes it a bit grunty. Food compatible, and slightly rustic, but enjoyable. 90/100

Logavi Glup Cinsault 2019 Itata, Chile
12.5% alcohol. Fermented in concrete and aged in foudre. This is textured and fine with lovely sweet cherry and berry fruits, and a slight saltiness under the sleek fruit. Some sour cherries and plums, too, with nice purity and a grainy structure. This is fresh, pure and massively drinkable but has a hint of seriousness. 93/100

Longavi Glup Carignan 2018 Maule, Chile
14% alcohol. This from decomposed granitic soils. It’s fermented in concrete tank without temperature control and then aged in barrel. A vivid red purple colour, this is fresh and aromatic with lovely pure, bright cherry and raspberry fruit. There’s a bit of grippy tannin and a fresh chalky mouthfeel. So fragrant, fresh and drinkable, but with a bit of substance to it also. Lovely stuff. 94/100

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