Six from South America, from The Wine Society
These are six wines that form the Fine Wines of South America case at the Wine Society. At £112, which is just a shade under £20 a bottle, this is an interesting prospect. The bottles are also available individually for the prices marked. There are some interesting wines here, showing some of the diversity now on offer from Chile, Argentina and Uruguay, although it is still quite a conservative selection – no old vine País from amphora here.
Tabali Talinay Chardonnay 2020 Limarí, Chile
13% alcohol
£14.50 The Wine Society
This is from limestone soils 12 km from the Ocean in the northern Chilean wine region of Limarí. Temperature is moderated here by proximity to the cold Pacific Ocean, because altitude is just 150 m. It’s a very fresh, taut linear expression of Chardonnay with crisp lemon, pear and orange peel notes, as well as a touch of grapefruit pith bitterness, all underpinned by high acidity. It’s a very limestone-like acidity, though, felt around the edge of the palate, but integrating well. Much more Chablis in style than anywhere else in Bourgone, although it’s probably best not to make this sort of comparison. 91/100
Tabali Barranco Viognier 2018 Limarí, Chile
13.5% alcohol
£14.50 The Wine Society
This is from the Rio Hurtado vineyard at 1600 metres altitude, which is one of the highest in Chile. It has an intriguing nose with a green nettly edge and some minty notes, as well as pear, apricot and citrus. The palate has a bright lemony finish but a contrasting broad, plush apricot and melon mid-palate, with lots of volume. It’s noticeably Viognier, but with a very distinctive twist, finishing with a hint of spicy ginger. 88/100
Susana Balbo Brioso 2018 Mendoza, Argentina
14.5% alcohol
£22 The Wine Society
From Lujan de Cuyo at over 1000 m this is a Bordeaux-style bled with 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Malbec, 17% Cabernet Franc, 14% Petit Verdot. Wonderfully aromatic with creamy blackcurrant fruit on the nose, some cherry notes and also some fine chalky characters. The palate is concentrated with great texture and lushness, but also grainy, gravelly characters providing a nice framing to the fruit. There’s also some chalky savouriness. Polished but balanced. 94/100
Familia Deicas Gran Bodegón 2015 Uruguay
13.5% alcohol
£22 The Wine Society
This is 40% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Marselan. 22 months in barrel. Concentrated, fresh and dense with blackcurrant and blackberry fruit as well as notes of ash, gravel and tar. Really intense, this has ripeness but also nice savoury detail. Firm and grippy and quite delicious. 94/100
Concha y Toro Terrunyo Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Pirque, Maipo, Chile
14% alcohol
£22 The Wine Society
This is from the Pirque DO in Maipo at 650 m altitude. Alluvial soils. Intense blackcurrant fruit with sweet berry fruit side and some pastille-like notes. Chewy and dense but also fresh, with intense blackcurrant notes the main driving force, and good structure. Has a slightly smoky edge. The tannins are really present but they don’t stick out. 93/100
Koyle Cerro Basalto Los Lingues Vineyard 2018 Alto Colchagua, Chile
14.5% alcohol
£17.50 The Wine Society
Hillside vineyard with shallow basaltic soils. Monastrell, Garnacha, Syrah and Cariñena. High density plantation up to 12 000 vines/hectare. Supple and bright with juicy cherry and raspberry fruit with nice brightness and some fine herby notes. There’s a vibrancy here, with a pure pastille-like fruit quality dominant. Quite taut and grippy. It’s brooding, dark and a little reductive with a firmness to the finish. 89/100
