Highlights: Torres Varietat Recuperada No. 23 Forcada 2016

Forcada is one of the many autochthonous Spanish grapes that were on the brink of extinction. That is, before the Torres’ family recognized, researched, and replanted this ancestral white grape. The family discovered Forcada in the northwestern part of the Penedès, rooted in the foothills of the Roca Forcada Mountain, hence it is part of their Varietat Recuperada collection (# 23). They planted it in 2014 in their Penedès’ home calcareous clay soils, at 450m altitude. This was fermented in stainless before aging in a split of 40% new oak, 40% in used oak, and 20% in concrete tanks for 3 months. Like Palomino, rooted in Jerez’ albariza, this speaks to the profoundness of site and soils, leading with ample, intense stony chalkiness, green apple, fresh almonds, crystalline lemon on a shimmering, vibrant, 13% palate. There’s a nutty sleekness, intertwined with minerals, that is hard to forget. The finish streams long and proud with salinity. I haven’t any idea what the grape tastes like in youth (this 2016 is current release), but Forcada, like Palomino, has just won a very important space in my little heart. 94/100 (TR)

Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]