Highlights: Enfield Wine Co Waterhorse Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

Take everything you know of Cali Cab and throw it away. Then taste this graceful wine. From Sonoma County’s tiny Fort Ross-Seaview AVA’s Waterhorse Ridge Vineyard, and its loamy/volcanic soils, this Cabernet-led blend is cooled by its elevation and proximity to the Pacific, 5 miles away. The 2 acre dry farm, organic, no-till vineyard is farmed and owned by grower Jesus Velasquez. Enfield Wine Co. is the family project of John Lockwood and Amy Seese, focused solely on producing low-intervention wines of individuality and place. John normally farms the sites himself, but this vineyard, nearly 20 years old, was so meticulously cared for by Jesus, he leaves it in capable hands. This was a native co-fermented field blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 7.5% Cabernet Franc and 2.5% Petit Verdot, with 25% whole cluster. After a 2 week ferment, the wine aged for 18 months in a mix of 500L Puncheons and 225L barrels (10% new) before being bottled unfined & unfiltered. Sweet wild plum, wild cassis, perfumed raspberries flow along a slight palate, held with fine, long, bamboo tannins. The finish lingers with dusty gravels, alluring florals, and subtle spices. Acidity is bright, buoying this 14 degree wine far loftier than one would surmise. This shows cab sauv’s grace and presence, and while drinking beautifully now, will be one to watch over the next few years. 93/100 (TR)

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Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]