Highlights: Le Clos Baudoin Aigle Blanc ‘Vin de Tris’ 1989 Vouvray, France

I bought this bottle years ago from a wine shop in South Kensington called La Vigneronne (now Handford Wines occupy this site), who were offering a batch of these wines Poniatowski wasn’t then thought of as in the very top tier of Vouvray producers, but this wine has aged beautifully, in half bottle format.

Prince Poniatowski Le Clos Baudoin Aigle Blanc ‘Vin de Tris’ 1989 Vouvray, France
12.5% alcohol. Golden in colour, this is intense and full flavoured, with lovely aromas and flavours of wax, honey, orange peel, nuts and a touch of apricot, with keen acidity offsetting the sweetness. It is still quite fresh and youthful, with lovely precision and a keen citrus core, but there are some nice savoury notes adding interest, and making the sweetness seem less sweet. This is a beautifully expressive, concentrated, mature wine offering a lot of pleasure, with room for further development. 95/100