The wines of Enderle & Moll from Germany’s Baden region
There’s a lot of buzz about Enderle & Moll, a project headed up by Florian Moll, focusing largely on Pinot Noir in Baden.
Enderle & Moll was started in 2007 with just three barrels of wine in a garage in Baden. Florian Moll and Sven Enderle had met studying at the Winzer Schule in Freiberg in 2003, and after a period of working at vineyards in France, joined forces for their own project. Interestingly, their biodynamically farmed natural wines first really took off in New York, through some happy coincidences, before they achieved domestic success. They are made from old vines on slopes, and as well as their own 2 hectares of vines, they source from another 8, farmed the same way. Sven left the project in 2019 for health reasons, and Florian now has new partners.
Vineyard work is by hand, and farming is organic (uncertified). In the cellar they initially worked with whole bunches by necessity (no destemmer), but this bootstrap-style winemaking has turned into a style all their own. Elevage is in used barrels sourced from top producers in Burgundy. As well as Pinot Noir, they are making some experimental and skin-fermented whites.
THE WINES
Enderle & Moll Müller Thurgau Pur 2020 Landwein Oberrhein, Germany
Full yellow colour. Hugely aromatic floral nose with notes of table grape, melon and fine spices. The palate is fresh and textured with exotic fruit and a touch of citrus brightness. So expressive. 93/100
Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir 2018 Landwein Oberrhein, Germany
13% alcohol. This is their entry level Pinot Noir they call ‘basis’, but it’s not marked on the label.Beautiful aromatics here with a sappy, leafy green hint to sweetly fragrant red cherries and cranberries. The palate is light but with some lovely flavour of red cherries, dried herbs, sour cherry and raspberry, with a brightness and a touch of sweetness to the acid line. Amazing drinkability, with a sense of purpose, too. Just enough volatile acidity to lift the aromas and sweeten the acid, but not too much. Lovely stuff. 93/100
Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir 2021 Landwein Oberrhein, Germany
This is ‘Basis’. Aromatic floral cherry fruit nose leads to a supple, rounded, textural palate with a very fine leafy edge to the strawberry and cherry fruit, with a sour cherry twist. Lively acidity here. 93/100
Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Liaison 2019 Landwein Oberrhein, Germany
Sweetly aromatic with nice texture, showing sweet berry fruit with a sour cherry twist to the cherry and plum notes. Smooth and ripe, and tending to elegance. 93/100
Enderle & Moll Pinot Noir Burntsandstein 2018 Landwein Oberrhein, Germany
Sweetly aromatic, this is supple, elegant and alive with a nervy acidity that adds a sweet spicy edge to the ripe fruit. So expressive: elegant but with a hint of wildness. 94/100
UK agent is Newcomer Wines
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