Exploring Japanese wine (2) Kaiseki dinner at Nakanoshima Nadaman, Osako
Website: https://store.nadaman.co.jp/en/pages/restaurant_nakanoshima
Nakanoshima Nadaman is a kaiseki restaurant in the Rihga Royal hotel in Osake. Here we enjoyed a top class kaiseki meal paired with Japanese wines. Kaiseki is a traditional multi-course menu, and so wine matching can create quite a challenge. The group feeling was that the three very different Koshus all did well in different settings, and the sparkling wine was a good all-rounder.
The food
Appetizer
Cauliflower mousse, prawn, kintoki carrot, ice plant, paprika, wasabi, broth jelly
Soup
Deep-fried crab dumpling, maitake mushroom, carrot, green bean, yuzu citron
Sashimi
Yellowtail salad
Tuna and sea bream, avocado soy sauce
Seasonal dish
Yam tofu, snow crab meat, egg yolk soy sauce, lotus root, edible flower, ginger vinegar
Deep fried shrimp and lotus root dumpling, avocado tartar sauce, paprika, lemon
Steaming egg custard with sesame tofu, sea urchin starchy sauce, wasabi
Grilled dish
Deep fried Spanish mackerel with spicy miso paste, scallop, broccoli, yam, paprika, kamoji leek
Hot dish
Hot pot of cod testes and grated daikon radish, Chinese cabbage, mizuna leaf, carrot, yuzu citron, roasted red pepper
Rice and soup
Steamed rice with sweet potato and bacon cooked in a clay pot, miso soup and pickles
Dessert
Assorted fruits covered in jelly
The wines
Asuka Wine Chardonnay Sparkling 2020 Osaka
A traditional method fizz, this is bright, linear and focused with pear, citrus and a subtle oxidative hint. It’s stony and mineral with good acidity. Dry and sophisticated. 90/100
Shimane Wine Ennusubi Koshu 2022 Shimane
Taut, stony and fresh with bright, transparent citrus fruit and a touch of pear. This has nice acidity. 88/100
Château Mercian Fuefuki Koshu Gris de Gris 2021 Yamanashi
This has some colour. It’s bright, fresh and linear with a nice stony edge to the pear, apple and citrus fruit. Shows a hint of smokiness with some structure. Juicy and refined. 92/100
Manns Wine Solaris Aged Koshu 2011 Yamanashi
This is interesting: an older Koshu. Has some spice and a touch of toastiness with lime, marmalade and a touch of sweetness adding a nice foil to the aged flavours. Has good structure and acidity. 90/100
Kawachi Wine Estate Muscat Bailey A NV Osaka
Appealing floral nose of wild strawberry, rose petal and candy. Supple and fresh on the palate: light in character with real drinkability, showing strawberry and cherry character. 91/100
Villa d’Est Tazawa Merlot 2018 Nagano
Nice density here with some spiciness and a touch of wood. Ripe, balanced cherry and berry fruits with a bit of grip. Lovely focus here. 91/100
EXPLORING JAPANESE WINE
1 Wine dinner at Pasania, Osaka
