Exploring Japanese wine (2) Kaiseki dinner at Nakanoshima Nadaman, Osako

Website: https://store.nadaman.co.jp/en/pages/restaurant_nakanoshima

Nakanoshima Nadaman is a kaiseki restaurant in the Rihga Royal hotel in Osake. Here we enjoyed a top class kaiseki meal paired with Japanese wines. Kaiseki is a traditional multi-course menu, and so wine matching can create quite a challenge. The group feeling was that the three very different Koshus all did well in different settings, and the sparkling wine was a good all-rounder.

The food


Cauliflower mousse, prawn, kintoki carrot, ice plant, paprika, wasabi, broth jelly


Deep-fried crab dumpling, maitake mushroom, carrot, green bean, yuzu citron


Yellowtail salad

Tuna and sea bream, avocado soy sauce

Seasonal dish

Yam tofu, snow crab meat, egg yolk soy sauce, lotus root, edible flower, ginger vinegar

Deep fried shrimp and lotus root dumpling, avocado tartar sauce, paprika, lemon

Steaming egg custard with sesame tofu, sea urchin starchy sauce, wasabi

Grilled dish

Deep fried Spanish mackerel with spicy miso paste, scallop, broccoli, yam, paprika, kamoji leek

Hot dish

Hot pot of cod testes and grated daikon radish, Chinese cabbage, mizuna leaf, carrot, yuzu citron, roasted red pepper

Rice and soup

Steamed rice with sweet potato and bacon cooked in a clay pot, miso soup and pickles


Assorted fruits covered in jelly

The wines

Asuka Wine Chardonnay Sparkling 2020 Osaka
A traditional method fizz, this is bright, linear and focused with pear, citrus and a subtle oxidative hint. It’s stony and mineral with good acidity. Dry and sophisticated. 90/100

Shimane Wine Ennusubi Koshu 2022 Shimane
Taut, stony and fresh with bright, transparent citrus fruit and a touch of pear. This has nice acidity. 88/100

Château Mercian Fuefuki Koshu Gris de Gris 2021 Yamanashi
This has some colour. It’s bright, fresh and linear with a nice stony edge to the pear, apple and citrus fruit. Shows a hint of smokiness with some structure. Juicy and refined. 92/100

Manns Wine Solaris Aged Koshu 2011 Yamanashi
This is interesting: an older Koshu. Has some spice and a touch of toastiness with lime, marmalade and a touch of sweetness adding a nice foil to the aged flavours. Has good structure and acidity. 90/100

Kawachi Wine Estate Muscat Bailey A NV Osaka
Appealing floral nose of wild strawberry, rose petal and candy. Supple and fresh on the palate: light in character with real drinkability, showing strawberry and cherry character. 91/100

Villa d’Est Tazawa Merlot 2018 Nagano
Nice density here with some spiciness and a touch of wood. Ripe, balanced cherry and berry fruits with a bit of grip. Lovely focus here. 91/100


1 Wine dinner at Pasania, Osaka

2 Wine dinner at Nakanoshima Nadaman, Osaka