Each year in January, the UK wine trade has a Bourgogne week. Except, we still call it Burgundy week. The interprofessional body, the BIVB, wants us to use the French name for the region rather than the anglicized term, so I’m obliging. But pretty much everyone in the English-speaking world is in love with the word ‘Burgundy’, and I can’t see this changing soon.

Bourgogne has had some tricky vintages, both in terms of quantity (too little wine) and style (2020 was ripe and almost ‘new world’ in style, raising the spectre of climate change and how it might affect the region; 2021 was a bit lean and pinched, with another strong stylistic imprint). Given the weather of 2022, which along with 2003 was one of the hottest vintages in living memory here, some were concerned about hot, blowsy wines.

But after tasting through quite a few wines (67 at the Berry Bros & Rudd tasting, and 64 at the Justerini & Brooks tasting), I’m so positively surprised by the style of the wines. ‘There’s a wonderful charm but also a tension,’ says Jean-Nicolas Méo of Méo-Camuzet. These are wines that are bright and fresh, with lovely pure fruit. And even better, this is one of those vintages that is good for whites and reds.

Now I know that 131 wines is but a snapshot of the vintage. If I’d wanted I could have tried 1000 wines this week, but commenting on (mostly) cask samples of Bourgogne is not how I earn my living. Those whose beat it is will have tasted a lot more wines, so I caveat my conclusions with this disclaimer. But for what it’s worth, I’ll share my notes of wines from a spectrum of producers.

Remember, these are notes on very young wines, many of which are yet to be finished and bottled. So I’m not looking here to provide definitive scores or tasting notes. I found a lot of wines that I liked. Will I be buying? Probably not, but this is simply because the imbalance between supply and demand has pushed Bourgogne prices to rather bonkers levels. Where I’m tempted to buy is with newer producers doing great work in less fashionable areas, and there are a few of these. There is still relative value in Bourgogne, but really good producers have a habit of being discovered and then the pricing increasing rapidly.

Jean-Nicolas Méo had a really interesting observation. ‘The wines got tension during the élevage,’ he says. ‘They gained tension after malolactic. It was surprising.’ He says that in many cases the pH stayed the same after malolactic (normally they rise), but in some cases they even went down. This was a very welcome surprise.

Justerini & Brooks

See their offer here: https://www.justerinis.com/en-primeur/burgundy/2022

Bachelet-Monnot

Bourgogne Côte d’Or Blanc 2022
Linear and fine with nice bright citrus fruit and some pear richness. Good concentration with stony minerality. 93/100

Maranges 1er Cru La Fussière 2022
Linear, focused and mineral with lovely lemony fruit. Nice presence here: fine and detailed, showing good complexity. 94/100

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2022
Good balance. Pear and white peach with some citrus brightness, showing good weight and structure. Subtle straw and toast notes: so mineral and fine. 95/100

Maranges Rouge 1er Cru La Fussière 2022
Good concentration and freshness. Pure and vivid with nice acidity and structure. Shows purity and precision. 93/100

Génot Boulanger

Guillaume Lavollée was upbeat about the vintage, saying that it was equally good for reds and whites.

Meursault Les Meix Chavaux 2022
Fresh and linear with pear and peach, and a touch of stony lemon. Very bright and focused with nice precision. 93/100

Meursault 1er Cru Les Bouchères 2022
Precise and mineral with lovely taut citrus fruit. There’s some spice and the acidity is nicely pronounced. Linear and focused. 95/100

Puligny-Montrachet Les Nosroyes 2022
Lovely stony mineral notes here: very fresh and fine with precision and energy. Stony and linear with nice pear fruit. 94/100

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 2022
There’s some depth here with notes of pear, citrus, spice and minerals. Textural with nice almond character under the fruit. Very fine. 95/100

Mercurey 1er Cru En Sazenay 2018
This is on the market now. Beautifully floral, fine and fresh with pure rounded cherry fruit. Combines freshness with ripeness to good effect. 94/100

Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves 2022
Some sappy green herbal notes here with a core of sweet fruit. Nice depth and texture with some spicy structure. 93/100

Pommard Vieilles Vignes 2022
Pure and linear with nice depth, showing sweet fruit. Rounded cherries and plums, finishing with some stony mineral notes. 94/100

Pommard 1er Cru Clos Blanc 2022
Supple, elegant and refined with lovely pure fruit and a mineral dimension. Really elegant with nice balance. 95/100

Domaine de Montille

(These wines were offered by both Justerinis and Berry Bros, thus wines marked either J or B after note)

Bourgogne Blanc Clos du Château 2022
Fresh, stony and vivid with a nice acid line. Shows good weight. 92/100 B

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2022
Stony and vivid with a hint of aniseed. Lovely citrus and pear fruit. Textured and vivid with nice weight. 94/100 B

Puligny-Montrachet 2022
Nice weight. Stony and vivid with generous pear and citrus fruit. But stays fresh and linear. 93/100 B

Meursault St Christophe 2022
This is beautiful, with lovely matchstick and mineral hints on the nose. Focused and precise with good fruit. Linear and mineral and really lemony. 95/100 J

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022
40% new oak. Powerful and focused with lovely pear and white peach, as well as some spicy citrus. Really intense and linear. Bright and lively with intensity and energy. 96/100 J

Bourgogne Rouge 2022
Lovely vibrant red cherry fruit on the nose. So floral and open. Pure and vivid on the palate with bright fruit and lovely balance. 94/100 B

Nuits-St-Georges Aux Saint-Juliens 2022
A magnesium-rich clay terroir. Lovely depth here with firm tannins and nice intensity. Shows good structure to the pure red fruits. 94/100 B

Beaune 1er Cru Grèves 2022
50% whole cluster. Floral aromatics and lovely presence. The palate is pure, sappy and elegant with good concentration and also some good structure. But it stays elegant. 95/100 J and B

Volnay 1er Cru En Champans 2022
Lovely wine: fine, elegant and expressive with nice tannic structure. Concentrated red cherry and berry fruits with a sense of finesse. Fine and expressive. 95/100 B

Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens du Bas 2022
50% whole cluster, 40% new oak. Supple, elegant and refined with a nice concentration of raspberry and cherry fruit with good structure and balance. Plenty of fruit and really nice precision here. 96/100 J

Joseph Drouhin

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 2022
Taut and focused with nice bright citrus fruit with a linear quality. Good acid. 94/100

Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche 2022
Bright with nice pear and white peach fruit as well as a slight creaminess. Good acidity and focus here. 93/100

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 2022
Lovely floral fruit here: red cherries and raspberries. Nice precision on the palate with ripe fruit showing good definition. 95/100

Chambertin Clos du Bèze Grand Cru 2022
Floral, elegant and refined with appealing ripe cherry and raspberry fruit with some strawberry notes. Great concentration, but with it stays elegant and refined, and mid-weight rather than powerful. So refined: almost weightless. 96/100

Tollot-Beaut

Chorey-Les-Beaune La Piece du Chapitre Monopole 2022
Juicy, linear and fresh but also with some richness. Has some ripe fruit and toasty oak. 93/100

Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru Lavieres 2022
Concentrated, dense and quite structured with some oak. Has nice complexity, in a full-on rich, ripe style. 92/100

Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Fournières 2022
Concentrated with nice intensity. Ripe and rich with bold fruit and some spicy detail. Sour cherry on the finish. 93/100

Beaune 1er Cru Grèves 2022
Concentrated and extracted with ripe fruit and good structure, as well as a touch of oak. Good weight with a nice sour cherry twist. 93/100

Follin Arbelet

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022
Nice concentration here with some ripeness, but it’s still focused with a mineral undercurrent to the sweet fruit. Refined. 94/100

Aloxe-Corton 2022
Two barrels out of 17 were fermented whole bunch. Fresh and vivid with floral fruit showing good concentration and purity. Ripe and quite full with lovely presence to the fruit. 93/100

Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Clos de Chapitre 2022
Simon Follin says this is a very different terroir to normal Aloxe-Corton. It’s a walled clos in the middle of the village with pure limestone soils that are very rocky, with a warm microclimate. Concentrated and nicely structure with lovely pure fruit. Stony and mineral with lovely concentration and focus. 95/100

Domaine Henri Gouges

They have an impressive 15 hectares of vines around Nuits-St-Georges.

Nuits-St-Georges 2022
Fresh and focused with nice structure and lovely black cherries and spice. Quite structured. 93/100

Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets 2022
This is a 3.57 hectare monopole. Concentrated, firm and dense with lovely intensity. Black cherries. Stern but lovely with great concentration and firm structure. 95/100

Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains 2022
Concentrated and firm with good structure, and some woody characteristics. Great density and focus with a core of sweet fruit. Lively acidity. 95/100

Méo Camuzet

Vosne-Romanée 2022
Linear and focused with lovely cherry and raspberry fruit, with nice balance and good acidity. Very fine, with nice structure. 95/100

Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Aux Baudots 2022
Very fine with nice stony detail. Fresh and structured with nice balance to the cherry and raspberry fruit, with a bit of spice. Lovely fruit here. 95/100

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2022
Focused and fine but also showing depth. Lovely structure with good definition. Very stylish. 96/100

Ghislaine Barthod

Bourgogne Rouge 2022
Fresh, energetic and focused with bright cherry fruit and some raspberry crunch. Linear with high acidity. 93/100

Chambolle-Musigny 2022
Supple and juicy with nice bright cherry fruit. Good structure with brightness as well as intensity. 94/100

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Véroilles 2022
Grippy and focused with nice bright cherry and berry fruit. Good focus here. 94/100

Drouhin Laroze

Gevrey-Chambertin Dix Climats 2022
Concentrated with bold structured cherry and berry fruits, with some notes of aniseed and cedar/oak. Rich and structured with density. 93/100

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Closeau 2022
Floral and expressive, and quite dense with nice structure and acidity. Quite extracted with bold structure and a bit of oak. 93/100

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2022
Nice fruit here. Bold, rich and quite structured with nice depth. Some oak in the mix. 94/100

Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2022
Ripe but dense with sweet black fruits and some bright raspberry notes. Firm but with lots of fruit. 94/100

Bruno Clair

Marsannay Blanc Cuvée Source des Roches 2022
Lovely weight here with appealing citrus fruit and pear, with some spiciness. Has a mineral twist. 92/100

Morey-St-Denis Blanc En Le Rue de Vergy 2022
Lovely balance. Stony with nice acidity. Quite mineral with pear and citrus fruit. Good presence. 94/100

Marsannay Les Vaudenelles 2022
Fresh and linear with lovely pure, bright elegance cherry and raspberry fruit. Lovely. 93/100

Chambolle-Musigny Les Véroilles 2022
This is lively, fresh and bright with nice definition to the stony red cherry fruits. Focused and floral. 94/100

Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix 2022
Bright and linear with lovely definition to the fresh pure fruit. Good structure here with nice focus to the fruit. Pure. 95/100

Berry Bros & Rudd

See their offer here: https://www.bbr.com/burgundy-en-primeur

Domaine Jean Grivot

These wines are impressive but not my style. I’m not scoring by my style preferences though: rather I try to assess quality. Not always easy.

Nuits St Georges Aux Lavières 2022
Nicely structured with some oak. Has freshness and intensity with bright raspberry fruit. Extracted. 93/100

Vosne-Romanée 2022
Focused with bright fruit. Detailed and grainy with some grip. Some oak evident here. 93/100

Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers 2022
Nice density here. It’s a structured wine with a spicy edge and good freshness. Big wine. 94/100

Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges 2022
Fresh, vivid, bright and quite appealing with good acidity. Nice focus and intensity. Quite firmly structured 94/100

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2022
Supple and juicy with nice structure. Has raspberry and cherry fruit with good acidity. Nice depth and weight. Stylish stuff, but at over £250 a bottle in bond it ought to be. 95/100

Domaine Guyon

An impressive set of wines here. Love what Jean-Pierre is doing. All these are bottled except for the Grand Crus.

Bourgogne Rouge 2022
Supple, light, elegant and fresh with sweet berry fruits and a hint of herbiness. Supple and elegant. 93/100

Chorey-Lès-Beaune Les Bons Ores 2022
Really aromatic and floral. Has a sappy edge to the sweet fruits and a touch of sour cherry. Fine grained and elegant with lovely red fruits. 94/100

Gevrey Chambertin Les Platières 2022
So fine, supple and elegant with lovely purity. Has some subtle green hints with nice grainy structure. Very fine and expressive. 95/100

Vosne Romanée 2022
Nice green edge here to the supple, fine red cherry and raspberry fruit. Has a lovely fine-grained structure. So expressive. 95/100

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2022
Good structure here. Dense with nice tannins and lovely raspberry and red cherry fruit. Grippy and serious. 96/100

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2022
Really floral and expressive with brightness and nice structure. Firm tannins under the vivid black cherry and plum fruit, with lovely intensity and weight. 96/100

Domaine Mugneret-Gilbourg

Nuits-St Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 2022
Such finesse and precision with raspberry and cherry fruit supported by good acidity. Lovely intensity here with great balance. 96/100

Vosne-Romanée La Columbière 2022
So fresh, fine and pure with lovely cherry and plumy fruits. Some raspberry too. So expressive with good structure. Such elegance and intensity. 96/100

Domaine Rossignol Trapet

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2022
Lovely floral aromatics. Fine and expressive with nice acidity and good tannins. Lovely fruit and grainy texture with some grip. 94/100

Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons 2022
Lovely intensity here with good structure and nice acidity. Pure and linear with raspberry and cherry fruit showing great focus. 94/100

Latricières Chambertin Grand Cru 2022
Good structure. Has a supple herbal hint with wild cherry and raspberry fruit. Tangy and intense with some sour cherry. Oak in the mix here? 95/100

Chambertin Grand Cru 2022
£500 a bottle in bond. Highly aromatic. Fresh and supple with nice intensity showing some spicy oak in the mix. Lively with great concentration and focus. But the oak is a distraction now. 94/100

Jean-Claude Bachelet

Really impressed by this producer.

St Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois 2022
Textured and quite broad with nice weight. Has a sweet core of peach and pear fruit. I liked it a lot but a winemaker I spoke to (not from Bourgogne) who’s sensitive to mouse thought this was mousy, so I need to add this caveat.

St Aubin 1er Cru Les Champlots 2022
Concentrated and mineral, but also quite broad. Finely spiced with citrus, pear and peach fruit. This is really fine. 95/100

Puligny-Montrachet Les Aubues 2022
Mineral and fine with lively spice ad some toast. Broad but focused with great concentration. Expressive stuff. 95/100

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte 2022
Stony, mineral and quite steely with nice intensity. Shows pear and citrus fruit with a lovely mineral twist. Powerful. 95/100

St Aubin 1er Cru Derrière La Tour 2022
Fresh and taut with lovely pure fruit and a mineral twist to the red cherry and raspberry fruit. Lovely focus and purity. Good value at £30 per in bond. 94/100

Benjamin Leroux

Auxey-Duresses Blanc 2022
Very fine and fresh on the nose. Lively citrus fruit with a touch of pear and grapefruit. Nice precision. 93/100

Meursault 2022
Stony and mineral with some depth. Lively spicy edge to the citrus fruit palate. Has freshness allied to complexity. 94/100

Meursault 1er Cru La Pièce Sous La Bois 2022
Fine, fresh and mineral with some stony notes, as well as precise citrus fruit, and pear and white peach. Finishes with a touch of spicy oak. 94/100

Gevrey-Chambertin 2022
Focused and fresh with lovely raspberry fruit, as well as some red cherry. Linear with nice structure and focus. Very fine. 94/100

Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois 2022
Some ripeness here. Sweet core of cherry fruit and a bit of structure. Open and appealing. 93/100

Vosne-Romanée 2022
Some structure here with nice grip. Gravelly berry and cherry fruits finishing spicy and grippy. 94/100

Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Cave des Ducs 2022
Supple and fresh with nice brightness, showing raspberry and cherry fruit with good concentration, structure and balance. Very fine. 95/100

Domaine Comte Armand

Volnay 2022
Supple, fresh and fine with a good concentration of raspberry cherry fruit. This is quite firm, with plenty of fine-grained tannins. 94/100

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru 2022
Fresh and alert with nice concentration of fruit and some oak. Vivid cherry and berry fruits with firm tannins. Lots going on here. 94/100

Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux 2022
Supple and fine with lovely cherry and raspberry fruit. Has good structure and some oak, but there’s also good fruit intensity. Firm yet elegant. 95/100

Domaine Fabien Coche

Auxey-Duresses Blanc 2022
Lively and linear with lovely precision. Sweet citrus, some pear and a nice mineral edge. Very fine. 94/100

Meursault Les Chevalières 2022
Very lively matchstick nose. Bright and very mineral with linear citrus and pear fruit. So mineral and expressive. 96/100

Meursault Clos du Pré de Manche 2022
Taut, stony and mineral with nice precision. Very fine with high acidity. Lovely. 95/100

Auxey-Duresses Rouge 2022
Lively, bright and expressive with a spicy edge to the fruit. Lively and intense. 92/100

David Moreau

Very impressive and well priced wines from this young Santenay winegrower. ‘We expected to harvest earlier,’ says David Moreau, because of the hot growing season. ‘But the vines were stressed with drought and so we had to wait, and I waited for some rain, to have bright and crispy fruit.’

Santenay Cuvée S 2022
Fresh, elegant and focused with nice grainy structure to the pure cherry and berry fruit. 93/100

Santenay 1er Cru Beaurepaire 2022
This Pinot Noir comes from a steep south-facing slope. Fresh, fine and elegant with lovely acidity. Really nice focus and energy here with lovely fruit. 94/100

Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau 2022
Supple, elegant, fine and pure with lovely weight. Very expressive, showing a chalky mineral edge to the pure red fruits. 94/100

Santenay 1er Cru Clos des Mouches 2022
Supple and really elegant. Fresh and fine with lovely balance, and some grippy structure. Nice purity here. So fine. 94/100

Domaine des Croix

Impressive wines here from David Croix.

Beaune Rouge 2022
This is from clay soils at the bottom of the slope, and is fermented in a new Rousseau 2300 litre foudre (the first time he’s used large oak). There’s just a hint of oak here with nice pure fruit. Vivid and fine with a nice spice edge to the cherry fruit. 93/100

Beaune 1er Cru Les Cents Vignes 2022
More limestone here. Supple and bright with a sappy edge to the elegant cherry and berry fruit. So fresh and vivid with nice focus. 93/100

Beaune 1er Cru Les Brassandes 2022
Nice weight and structure with pure red fruits, showing good finesse and detail. 94/100

Corton Les Grèves Grand Cru 2022
Supple and fine with nice structure with pure fruit. Lovely weight to this wine, which is really fine. 95/100

Dominique Lafon

Bourgogne Blanc 2022
Lovely weight here: very fine and expressive with a mineral twist. Quite stony and mineral. 92/100

Beaune 1er Cru Epenottes 2022
Fresh and elegant with a stony, mineral edge to the red fruits with lovely core and focus. Great precision here: very fine. 95/100

Volnay 2022
Nice concentration with a stony edge to the vivid sweet fruit, with berries and cherries, with some nice structure and presence. Very expressive. 94/100

Domaine A-F Gros

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022
In stainless steel. Juicy, vivid and bright with cherry and berry fruits. Nice purity here. 92/100

Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas 2022
Really floral with a sappy edge to the fruit. Nice cherries and plums. Open, expressive and elegant. 93/100

Pommard 1er Cru Les Pézerolles 2022
Nice supple fruit here. Elegant and quite fine with good balance and focus, with a core of sweet rounded cherry fruit. 94/100

Domaine Rollin

Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc 2022
Nicely textured with good weight and notes of citrus and pear. Some well integrated oak. 93/100

Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc Les Cloux 2022
Lovely weight here. Quite rich white peach and pear fruit with good volume. Generous but balanced. 94/100

Pernand-Vergelesses Rouge 2022
Lovely vivid floral nose with a stony mineral edge to the fresh, pure red fruits. Raspberries, cherries and some nice stony notes. 93/100

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Fichots 2022
Some oak evident, as well as nice vivid cherry and berry fruits with good structure. Could be really good with time. Nice balance. 93/100

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