Highlights: Barbadillo Nave Trinidad Manzanilla en Rama, Spain

The Nave Trininad is one of the naves in the bodega El Toro, the first warehouse that Benigno Barbadillo bought when he started his company in 1821. This old school bodega is rectangular-ish in shape, with four independent sections around a central patio. Each of the naves has slightly different ageing conditions, and Trinidad is the one facing towards the sea, influenced by the fresh saline air. It was named Trinidad after one of the ships that were part of Magellan’s expedition around the world. In 2019, in honour of the 500th anniversary of the sailing of the Trinidad from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the solera system in their eponymous bodega was reconfigured to produce this very select Manzanilla, exclusively unblended with wine from other facilities. This is a high-quality youthful Manzanilla, around 4 years of age, and bottled unfiltered (en rama). Fresh and shining with briny and toothsome green olives, marcona almonds, crunchy green apple, and lemon zest, with a herbaceous meadow grass woven throughout, and omnipresent salinity, which lingers on the clean, crisp finish. Beauty freshness throughout this smart wine. Pass the boquerones. *The label is by local artist Marco Oliva, whose father Manolo worked in bodega El Toro. 93/100

Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]