The remarkable wines of Bodega Cerrón, Jumilla, Spain
Website: http://vinacerron.com/
Jumilla is a wine region in the southeast of Spain, in the province of Murcia. It’s hot here, and the main grape is Monastreall (aka Mourvèdre). Winegrowing arrived early here, with the Phoenicians, and was continued by the Romans. Altitude helps the vines here, with most vineyards at 350-800 m, with a continental climate. Soils are also important: the deep layers of limestone allow vines to be dry grown even when rainfall is just 300 mm a year.
Bodega Cerrón are making waves here as one of the top wineries. They farm biodynamically (they are certified by Demeter) and farm vineyards at 800-1000 m, the highest part of the appellation. The vines are made naturally, with the only addition being 20 ppm of sulfites before bottling. Many of their vines are ungrafted (pie franco).
As well as Bodega Cerrón, they also have the Stratum Wines label.
These are stunning wines, quite different to any I’ve experienced before from Jumilla.
THE WINES
Bodega Cerrón Stratum Wines Matas Altas Blanco Viñas Viejas 2022 Jumilla, Spain
Vines planted in the 1970s. Lively and mineral with bright, stony-edged fruit. Vivid with great precision and nice tension, as well as keen acidity. Linear and bright with nice stoniness. 94/100
Bodega Cerrón ‘El Tiempo Que Nos Un’ Monastrell 2012 Jumilla, Spain
14% alcohol. ‘Time brings us together’. 15-50 year old Monastrell, 50% whole bunch in concrete. No temperature control. Supple, bright and linear with nice freshness and focus. Lovely precision. Juicy and fine with purity. Brilliant stuff, and great value for money. 95/100
Bodega Cerrón Redordimento 2022 Jumilla, Spain
14% alcohol. 10% Garnacha Tinto, whole bunch; 90% Monastrell, 50% whole bunch. Aged in big barrels and concrete. Fresh, supple and bright with lovely cherry and plum fruit as well as nice grainy structure. Some depth here: really fresh with nice balance. Juicy, supple and linear. 94/100
Bodega Cerrón Stratum Wines Matas Altas Tinto 2022 Jumilla, Spain
Ungrafted vines grown at 550-1000 m. 90% Monastrell. Supple, fine and linear with great precision to the fresh yet silky cherry fruit. Nice structure and focus with real finesse as well as pepper and red cherries. Such precision to this wine. 95/100
Bodega Cerrón Stratum Wines La Servil 2022 Jumilla, Spain
This is from a single vineyard in the mountains, and it’s sort of Monastrell meets Nebbiolo in style. So supple and fresh with lovely fine-grained tannins. Quite silky but also possessing good structure under the fresh red fruits. Stony, mineral and bright with purity and good acidity. Profound. 96/100
Bodega Cerrón Stratum Wines Les Yesares 2022 Jumilla, Spain
This is from a vineyard planted in 1942 and 1967, where the mother limestone rock is fractured so the roots can penetrated deeper. So fresh and layered, perfumed and textural. Has grippy tannins under the silky red cherry and raspberry fruit. Real finesse and focus here with great precision and balance. 96/100
