Highlights: Thistle and Weed Chenin Blancs
Thistle and Weed is a collaboration between the Terblanche and Wiid families, established in 2015, and led by Etienne Terblanche (Viticulturist) and Stephanie Wiid (Winemaker). The name was inspired by the ever present weeds found amongst the vines grown in the Western Cape. Etienne and Steph draw parallels between thistles and weeds, and the uncompromising tenacity and survival of grapevines. Each wine is named (in Afrikaans), and labelled, by such an inspiring local botanical. I had a chance to taste through their 3 Chenins, though they also make a white blend, and 2 single variety reds (Alicante Bouchet, and Cabernet Franc).
Thistle & Weed Duwweltjie Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Paarl, South Africa
This bush vine Chenin was planted in 1961 on the windswept koffeklip slopes of Joostenberg. Duwweltjie are the Devils’ thorns that stick to the soles of your boots when you visit this rugged site. The grapes were whole bunch pressed and native fermented in older French 225L barrels, with bâtonnage for the first month, and then was left undisturbed on lees for 10 months. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Alluring meadow herbs, white peach, pear skin, and subtle quince are woven throughout this gently textural Chenin, padded with lees, and lit with a buzzing energy that spirals this out into the lingering finish. Very smart, and drinking beauty now. 92/100
Thistle and Weed Brandnetel Chenin Blanc 2022, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa
This Chenin comes from Nietvoorbij vineyard in the foothills of the Simonsberg Mountain, in Stelly, on weathered granite soils. The vineyard was planted in 1980, originally as a rootstock trial site, hence its unique 32 rootstocks in active use there today. Brandnetel / Stinging nettle is both fierce and soft; painful and restorative. This was whole bunch pressed and native fermented in French barrels, with bâtonnage for the first month, and then left undisturbed on lees for 9 months. Heady mountain herbs / meadow grass, downy quince, pear skin, white grapefruit teem in the glass, with a buzzy granitic grip livening and stretching this from beneath. Quite a smart, layered, compact chenin. 93/100
Thistle and Weed Springdoring Chenin Blanc 2021, WO Swartland, South Africa
This bush vine Chenin was planted in 1982 in the Joubertskloof on the Paardeberg Mountain, rooted in Uitvlugcht’s pure granite soils at 300m. It was whole bunch pressed and native fermented in older French barrels, with bâtonnage over the first month, and then left undisturbed for 9 months prior to bottling unfiltered. There’s a noticeable Swartland density here, with ripe pear, green fig, subtle quince bedded on a downy, flaxen lees base, sharpened with crystalline white grapefruit. The finish lingers long with a buzzy and saline granitic hum. Powerful and understated at once, this is showing beauty. Srpingdoring is a grippy hitchhiker, quick to latch on, and slow to let go. Much like the memory of this wine. 150 cases. 94/100
