Restaurants: Noble Rot, Lambs Conduit Street, the best set lunch around

The set lunch at Noble Rot is one of gastronomy’s great bargains. Couple this with one of the best wine lists out there, and it’s amazing that I don’t eat there more often (although I go there more than most places). I recently caught up with my friend Nikki of Second Stories ( and we ate very well as well as having some nice wine. I won’t describe the food other to say that the cooking is spot on, working with great ingredients. Imaginative but unfussy.

Goisot Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre ‘Biaumont’ 2019 Bourgogne, France
This was by the glass, but we could have drunk a bottle. Generous but chiselled with a crystalline undercurrent to the ripe pear, apple and lemon fruit. Lovely weight but also a crystalline edge: this is really good. 93/100

Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba 2022 Piemonte, Italy
Although this was by the glass, we did drink a bottle. Roagna’s wines are now highly celebrated and the fancy ones cost a fortune, but this Dolcetto is affordable and fantastic. So fresh and crunchy with bright raspberry fruit and some sour cherry. Tart and bright acidity. So pure and energetic with finesse, purity and massive drinkability. 93/100

Hambeldon Classic Cuvée NV Hampshire, England
Hambledon are making impressive wines, and this was by the glass to finish the meal. Bright, fresh and complex with apple, toast, spice and some lime. Golden and crystalline with nice precision and a lovely acid line. So fresh and direct. Beautiful energy here, and a sense of harmony. 92/100