Highlights: two dry Furmints, Disznókő and Oremus

Furmint is such an interesting grape variety. It isn’t immediately likeable: it can be grainy, gritty, savoury and even a bit angular. But it has its own distinct personality. And that’s a good thing. Here are two Furmints I tried recently, both made by outsiders to the region.

Disznókő Dry Furmint 2020 Tokaji, Hungary
13% alcohol. This has that characteristic Furmint nose of stony-edged citrus fruit with a slightly savoury, smoky dimension. In the mouth this is pure and fruit-driven (citrus and pear) with nice texture but also some of that pithy, spicy marmalade character and a twist of lime that are so characteristic of this variety. 92/100 (in the UK this retails for £21 at Lea and Sandeman)

Oremus Mandolás Dry Furmint 2020 Tokaji, Hungary
13.5% alcohol. This is from Vega Sicilia’s Tokaji winery. This is stony and alert with lemon, pear and marmalade notes, with some savoury, mineral intensity. Good concentration here with a lovely tapering, spicy, mineral finish. A serious expression of dry Furmint with nice intensity, and a twist of marmalade on the finish. Lots of intensity here. 93/100 (In the UK this is £28 at Field and Fawcett)