The wines of Sidónio de Sousa, Bairrada
Bairrada is one of Portugal’s most interesting wine regions, specialising in reds from Baga, but also some really good sparkling wines and increasingly interesting mineral whites. I tasted these in the region with Alfonso Sousa, who is part of the family, and takes care of communication as well as helping out generally. Paul Sousa makes the wine.
They have 12 hectares of vines and this is going to expand to 20. Most of this is Baga, but there are also mixed white varieties (Bical, Maria Gomes, Arinto and Cercial) and a bit of Merlot.
THE WINES

Sidónio de Sousa Special Cuvée Rosé 2017 Bairrada
100% Baga, five years on lees, made with just free run juice. For sparkling they harvest Baga by acidity and so the pick can begin in mid-August. Vibrant, juicy and pure with lovely red cherry fruit and some strawberry and citrus. Linear and bright with a pithy edge. Good acidity here. 92/100

Sidónio de Sousa Special Cuvée Branco 2018 Bairrada
Bical, Maria Gomes and Arinto, Brut Nature, made from just free run juice. Lovely brightness here with concentrated pear, apple and lime notes and subtle toastiness. Keen acidity with lovely purity and some complexity. Lemony acidity. Very fine. 93/100

Sidónio de Sousa Reserva Branco 2021 Bairrada
13% alcohol. They made their first still white in 2016. 93% Bical and 7% Cercial, 12 hours’ maceration in the press. Stainless steel only with battonage in tank. Creamy and quite textural with broad citrus, pear and peach fruit. Lovely texture and depth of fruit. 92/100

Sidónio de Sousa Reserva Tinto 2017 Bairrada
13.5% alcohol. This spends a year in a 4000 litre tonel made from Portuguese oak that’s 100 years old. Concentrated, powerful and textured with bold blackberry and black cherry fruit, showing some lushness. There are some tannins here with lovely intensity to the fruit. Firmly structured, but the tannins and acid integrate well. 93/100

Sidónio de Sousa Vinho D’Autor Baga 2015 Bairrada
This label is for wines that don’t fit elsewhere. This is the third version, and it spent 1 year in large oak and 5 years in small barrels. This has freshness and finesse with a good concentration of sweet black fruits with firm tannins and a bit of weight, but also good definition. Nice tannins and acid, with some elegance, too. 95/100
Sidónio de Sousa Vinho D’Autor Baga 2005 Bairrada
This was the second release of this label, and it spent 10 years in a large tonel. Wonderful aromatics with some sweet herbs, black cherries and blackberries. Has lovely spicy framing to the sweet fruit. Concentrated palate with a core of vibrant sweet cherry and berry fruit, as well as some warm spicy notes. A beautiful wine that’s a wonderful expression of Baga. 95/100