A wine dinner at Toklas, previewing their new wine list

Website: https://www.toklaslondon.com/

Toklas is a bustling modern-Mediterranean style restaurant just round the corner from Somerset House in London. Last night a group of wine folk were gathered for a wine dinner intended to give a preview of their new wine list. This is the first time Toklas has held a wine dinner.

Agustina and Heidi

The list has been put together by Head of Beverages Agustina Basilico, working closely with consultant Heidi Mäkinen, a Finnish master of wine. They have now been working together for 18 months. Toklas also have their own private label wines, and I like that these aren’t the cheaper wines, but instead more high end. The Vermentino (Rolle) we tried is on the list at £50, and it’s really good. They also have seven wines on tap (using keykeg), and these are also interesting wines. Wine on tap is a brilliant thing and saves waste, as well as ensuring that every glass poured is fresh and in good condition.

Toklas’ head chef Chris Shaw with Agustina Basilico, head of drinks

Agustina, who is from Buenos Aires, says that they wanted to expand the variety in the wine list, working with winegrowers who cherish the land and protect the environment, while at the same time not repeating themselves with wines they list: every wine has to be earning its place and offering something different.

Heidi describes Agustina as much more liberal in terms of wine tastes than she is, and that there was a lot of dialogue in building the list. ‘We come from different backgrounds,’ says Heidi. ‘We want interesting producers and lots of diversity, but also we want to meet the guests needs. Sustainability is a big thing: we want the wine to be delicious, but if there’s more story, that’s great.’ The wine list also reflects the cuisine, and the fact that there’s no red meat. And a nice touch: they’ve marked with a dot the wines that are more natural.

Toklas has been open for three years now, and its focus is on Mediterannean food, with a strong seasonal lead. It’s vegetable and fish focused, and there’s no red meat on the menu. The menu itself changes monthly, and for Toklas supplier relationships are very important. They also have a bakery below the restaurant.

The set menu focused on the winter produce from long-term friend of the restaurant and citrus supplier, Vicente Todolí.

Toklas White Edition I 2023 Provence, France
The first own-label wine, the Toklas white, is made by a female winemaker (Valerie Courrèges) and the label is designed by a female Turner-Prize winning artist, Lubaina Himdi, so there’s a female empowerment theme here. It’s Rolle (it says Vermentino on the label but the Italians have pulled a fast one and banned the French from using this name), and farming is biodynamic. This is fresh and supple, with some rounded character and a lovely texture in the mouth, finishing with lemon and mandarin and a fine spiciness. Very stylish. 92/100

Rodrigo Méndez Cíes 2023 Rías Baixas, Spain
This is Albariño. Lovely tension with a slight saltiness to the tight citrus fruit, and also a hint of apricot richness. Really detailed and engaging. 93/100

Ravioli with spinach, Westcombe ricotta and chanterelles

Domaine Daniel Barraud Pouilly-Fuissé Les Châtaigniers 2020 Bourgogne, France
This is fine and citrussy with the faintest hint of green. Rich and textural with nice tension. A really good Pouilly-Fuissé. 93/100

Artichoke alla romana with fava, winter tomato, rocket and taggiasche olives

Domaine de L’Ecole Les Vins Pirouettes 2023 Alsace, France
This is skin-fermented Gewurztraminer from Christian Binner, and it’s served on tap, which is very cool. This spends 7 days on skins. It’s aromatic with peach, grape and melon aromas, and then a lovely texture in the mouth. Shows depth but also focus. 93/100

Cornish hake with braised cuttlefish, chickpeas and aioli

Ktima Zafeirakis Limnoina 2020 Thessaly, Greece
This deeply coloured red is fresh and bright with red cherry and raspberry fruit and even some blackcurrant. Bright and vivid with juicy berry fruits, showing purity, fresh fruit and also nice structure and acidity. 94/100

Baked cream with caramelized blood orange and almond

Champagne Franck Pascal Harmonie Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut 2014 France
A blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Nice depth with cherry, citrus and pear fruit, as well as some spice and a touch of mandarin exoticism. There’s some orange peel and a bit of structure, finishing with apple and spice. A really expressive Champagne. 94/100