New Zealand adventure, day 2, Waipara
The day begins as light begins to dissolve the darkness, and I see it all from my bed in the off-grid wood cabin with no curtains as well as no power. I get up and walk around a bit. I make coffee on the camp stove. I bathe in the outdoor tub. I write a bit and in this setting words come easily. The birdsong is loud. Cacophonous but soothing.
Shortly before 9 am I head out for the first appointment, at a producer new to me. Dancing Water is the project of Kim Schofield and her husband. They bought one of the region’s legacy vineyards, a 4 hectare block on 10 hectares of land planted originally in 1981, and this is a new project with the first wines being made in 2019.
They initially saw the vineyard as an investment, but Kim is now hooked, and has transferred her considerable energy and skills to this project. She makes five rosés, including one fashioned by Matt Connell in Central Otago, as well as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of distinction. She’s nervous receiving a journalist from abroad, but she needn’t be: these are really good wines and the project is progressing well.
Then it’s off to see Nick and Pen at Black Estate, one of New Zealand’s most inspiring low-intervention (call it natural if you will) ventures. I first met Nick here in 2008 when he was working for Danny Schuster. How far Black Estate has come over the last decade: they now own three significant vineyards in Waipara/Omihi, which they farm biodynamically and intelligently. Home, Netherwood and Damsteep are all different, and are all talented sites. Winemaking is natural, but the wines are classically styled. And quite beautiful.
The core range has amazing Riesling, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Noir. To these, recent additions have been Viognier and Pinot Gris. Everything here is good. Such thoughtful viticulture.
Third stop was another new producer for me: Australian James Opie has a hospitality background and loves music, and makes natural wines with a classical sensibility under the Bryterlater label. (https://www.bryterlaterwines.co.nz/ ) The name comes from a Nick Drake song. These wines are quite thrilling including some of the best PetNats I’ve tried. The labels are also inspired by synaesthesia.
Time for the Ute bar, and a fun visit with Matt and Helen Barbour, who are just beginning with their own wine label, Fernbank, which is based on four hectares of vines they purchased, and another 4.5 hectares next door purchased by Matt’s parents. At the moment, most of the grapes are being sold, but they are also making impressive Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (for now, this is from mostly purchased grapes; they’ve grafted over some Pinot to Chardonnay. The Ute bar is a couch on the back of a truck, where we sit and taste the wines. This is one to watch.
Finally, another new producer who has yet to release any wines. Next door to Black Estate, Japanese winegrower Masayuki Bunya has a beautiful small vineyard from which he is making deeply impressive Pinot Noir in a new, well equipped winery. First vintage was 2019, but this is not released yet. We taste this, and also the 2020 and 2023 vintages, the latter in tank and ready for bottling. There’s a breeze on the terrace, and we look over this beautiful hillside of Omihi vines. It’s a special location.
