New Zealand adventure, day 1: Waipara, North Canterbury

I’m back in New Zealand for the first time since 2019, and it feels great, despite the jetlag. I travelled from London to Dubai, then Dubai to Auckland (both with Emirates, which over-delivers) and then a short hop to Christchurch with Jet Star. All the connections worked well. I got to Christchurch around 4 pm, and picked up a hire car and hit the road. 50 minutes later I was in the Waipara Valley (technically Omihi), where I’m staying for three nights.

I should say something about my accommodation, because it is amazing. I’m staying in the Russell’s Cabins of the luxury Kumiko’s Guest House, right next door to Black Estate. The house was designed by Russell Black’s wife Kumiko, and has Japanese interests. The cabins, a short distance up the hill in a secluded location, were put there by the current owners Sue and Paul McGregory. The three equal-sized cabins consist of two bedrooms and a lounge area, and are off-grid with no internet or power and a compostable toilet. And they are beautiful, with views across the vineyard to the hills.

Dawn view

Website: https://kumikosnz.com/russellscabins

Paul, Sue and Ken

I had dinner last night with Sue and Paul, and their neighbour Ken Stewart, who as a retirement project farms a hectare of vines. We drank a few nice local wines, and it was a perfect start to the trip. I was up early for the sunrise, and shortly I’ll be off doing some winery visits.

Greystone Erin’s Chardonnay 2020 North Canterbury, New Zealand
14% alcohol. 1650 bottles made. Single-plot wine from 1 hectare of Mendoxa clone planted on limestone slopes (the Thomas Brothers’ Block), and named after the Thomas’ daughter Erin. Wild-ferment in 40% new oak. Complex, spicy and nutty with pear and peach fruit as well as some crystalline citrus. This has depth, concentration and richness with beguiling complexity. Finishes with pineapple, peach and lime. Lovely. 95/100

Forager Pinot Noir 2019 North Canterbury, New Zealand
1805 bottles made. This is made by Dom Maxwell of Greystone, and it’s from a single plot near Waiau, limestone soils, hillside plantings. It’s a beautiful wine. Fresh, supple, and textural with pepper, wild strawberry and red cherry fruit. So supple and fine with a twist of sour cherry on the finish and some green mulchy hints. This is a beautifully textural wine. 95/100

Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir 2012 North Canterbury, New Zealand
This is ageing beautifully. Nice ripe warm flavours of black cherry and plums with some olive and tea as well as some nice structure. Some iodine too. This has amazing presence and development. 95/100

Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir 2012
13.5% alcohol. Selection from the oldest vines on the estate, on their own roots. Taut, focused and aromatic. Stern black cherry and blackberry fruit. Fresh and focused with some savoury detail. Grippy with a plummy edge to the fruit, this is grainy and dense, and shows further potential for development. Quite special. 96/100