Nautilus, a deep dive into this Marlborough producer with winemaker Clive Jones
A few years back I spent a lot of time in Marlborough, New Zealand’s largest wine region. Most people are familiar with it through the large quantities of Sauvignon Blanc that it makes – and it does this very well. Around 80% of the region’s 30 000 hectares of vines are Sauvignon Blanc: the Savalanche. But as well as being home to the factory wineries, there are also some small/medium wineries doing things a little differently, and one of them is Nautilus.
Winemaker Clive Jones was in London sharing the Nautilus story over lunch, and we got a chance to look at the current releases. ‘It’s frustrating for everyone that we are dominated by Sauvignon,’ he says. ‘We know there is much more in Marlborough.’ Part of the reason for this is that Marlborough’s best-known variety is just so distinctive, but its work with other varieties, while really good, doesn’t set it apart from other fine wine regions. ‘We make a distinctive Sauvignon,’ says CJ: ‘Our absolutely unique factor for Chardonnay? It’s not so unique.’
CJ has been a winemaker since 1992, when he did his first vintage at Selaks in West Auckland. But since 1998 he’s been at Nautilus, a winery established by the Hill Smith family of Australia (Yalumba et al) back in 1985, when they made 200 cases of Sauvignon Blanc. Then there were just 80 wineries in New Zealand; now there are over 700. And the most widely planted grape in Marlborough? Muller Thurgau.
Nautilus is now celebrating its 41st vintage. They are a medium-sized Marlborough operation crushing 1500 tons and making 100 000 cases of wine in an average year. One-third of this is branded Nautilus, the rest is sold as Opawa. They have six estate vineyards and work with three contract growers.
How has Marlborough changed over the years? CJ says that when he arrived in 1998 it was a hot vintage. After 1995, a very problematic, rainy vintage, people had been leaf plucking a lot to reduce botrytis risk at the end of the season. Along comes 1998 and the fruit was over-exposed. This prompted people to re-think the best way to grow Sauvignon. He says that Nautilus use a lot of Scott-Henry, which is a split canopy trellising method where as well as having a vertical canopy some of the canopy is pointed downwards and held by training wires. This is especially useful in fertile sites. One thing they have noticed is how much more compressed the growing season now is. Back in 1998, vintage lasted 20-26 days; now it’s around 16 days, with the shortest being 2021 at 14 days. As well as being compressed, harvest has also moved forwards a week.
‘It has been an amazing 30 years,’ says CJ, on how things have gone for Marlborough. ‘The next 10 years are going to be challenging.’
THE WINES
Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc 2024 Marlborough, New Zealand
13.5% alcohol. Taut on the nose with bright grapefruit and pear notes, and a nice fine chalky green note. In the mouth this has a core of lime with subtle green twist and a nice acid line. This is a compact Sauvignon with great concentration, a firm acid line, and lovely citrus-dominated fruit. Finishes with a fine grassiness. 92/100
Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc 2023 Marlborough, New Zealand
Lovely aromatics here with ripe pear, green pepper and some tomato leaf, with a hint of tropical fruit. The palate shows texture and freshness with good palate weight and a slight chalky edge. Good acidity. Plenty of substance here. 93/100
Nautilus Paper Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Marlborough, New Zealand
This is an alternative style of Sauvignon, hand picked and fermented in 3000 litre foudres using a cultured non-saccharomyces yeast called Toruluspora that takes fermentation through to dryness. Concentrated and linear, this is a powerful wine with good weight and nice acidity. Crystalline citrus fruit with nice intensity and potential for ageing. Nice mineral intensity here. 94/100
Nautilus Albariño 2023 Marlborough, New Zealand
Almost 15 years ago Nautilus was looking at planting something different, and CJ was keen on Grüner Veltliner, while his boss fancied Albariño. The Albariño, first made in 2014, outsells GV by six to one. They have 1.5 hectares of it, and there are now 60 hectares in New Zealand. Fruity and appealing with apricot, pear and some nice citrus fruit. Ripe and textured with lovely fruit presence. 89/100
Nautilus Chardonnay 2021 Marlborough, New Zealand
Mainly from the Renwick vineyard, where they have been making wine since 1989 (they bought it in 1993). Hand picked, whole-bunch pressed and settled overnight, the to barrel with full-ish solids. Fermented in a room kept at 16 C. Subtle touch of flintiness and then exotic pineapple, pear and melon fruit with nice citrus drive. Vivid with good brightness and freshness, with some richness. Some exotic toasty spicy detail on the finish. 91/100
Nautilus Southern Valleys Pinot Noir 2019 Marlborough, New Zealand
Hand picked, chilled fruit, 20% whole bunch wild ferment, short time on skins then goes to barrel for 11 months, one-quarter new. Supple, fresh and fine with nice weight and grainy tannins. In a nice place. 92/100
Nautilus Clay Hills Pinot Noir 2020 Marlborough, New Zealand
They bought the Clay Hills vineyard in 2007, and it was planted in 1999. Fresh with nice texture to the sweet berry fruits, with some strawberry notes in the mix, as well as some grippy structure. Has nice weight and balance with real elegance and focus. 94/100
Nautilus Clay Hills Pinot Noir 2017 Marlborough, New Zealand
Very supple and fine with lovely black cherry fruit. Fine and supple with good depth, showing sweet fruit but also nice structure, with some savoury notes around the fringes. 94/100
Nautilus Cuvée Marlborough NV Marlborough, New Zealand
12% alcohol. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. Minimum 36 months on lees. This is base 2019 with some perpetual reserve added: this is where they take 10-15% of reserve wines from barrels and refill with the fresh blend. Dosage 6 g/l. Focused with nice fruit, and a creamy edge to the cherry and lemon fruit, finishing with bright citrus. 92/100
