New Zealand Pinot Gris – a mini-study with Rockburn, Isabel, Ata Rangi and Greywacke
These are four interesting, and contrasting examples of Kiwi Pinot Gris. It’s one of those grapes that professionals don’t seem to understand the appeal of, but which many consumers seem to like. But often it’s cheap, overcropped Pinot Gris with little character that seems to sell well. What about more ambitious Pinot Gris?
I find it intriguing because this is basically the same variety as Pinot Noir, with just a mutation in anthocyanin production in one of the cell layers in the skin. But the wines taste so different!
The Rockburn is lean and lemony. Isabel has more richness, but also some stony savoury notes, and Greywacke is the richest, with lovely depth of fruit. Ata Rangi is bright and energetic, but with a bit of depth, too, but this is the youngest wine, and I think it has potential for further development. I’m not sure I understand this variety fully, but these are nice wines.
Rockburn Pinot Gris 2023 Central Otago, New Zealand
13% alcohol. This is a blend of Gibbston and Bannockburn fruit. It’s really bright with keen acidity, but also some quite exotic nectarine and pear notes, as well as bright cherry and lime. Taut and compact, with bracing acidity keeping everything in sharp focus. Quite lemony and bright. 91/100
Isabel Estate Pinot Gris 2021 Marlborough, New Zealand
13% alcohol. There’s some depth and richness here, but it’s not at all blowsy. There’s a stony undercurrent to the lemon and pear fruit, with some peach in the mix, too. The finish is fresh and linear, with just a touch of fruit sweetness as well as some compact savoury character. Quite a bit of character to this wine. 92/100
Greywacke Pinot Gris 2023 Marlborough, New Zealand
14% alcohol. This is rich and textural, with a nice spicy flourish alongside bold melon and pear fruit, with some cherry and citrus notes in the mix, too, and even a suggestion of that bacon fat character that rich Pinot Gris can sometimes show. It finishes with a touch of pithy bitterness that helps frame the generous fruit, and moderate acidity. This is a lovely Pinot Gris. 93/100
Ata Rangi Pinot Gris 2024 Martinborough, New Zealand
14% alcohol. This is really interesting. There’s some lemon and grapefruit brightness, with mandarin and table grape richness, but also a core of vibrant acidity and brightness that holds everything in tension. I like the marzipan and cherry characters that blend in well with the citrus, and there’s a tapering finish. Lots of treble and middle here, and not much bass, making it a versatile, joyful sort of Pinot Gris offering pleasure and food compatibility, although you could easily drink this on its own. It might also age in interesting ways. 93/100
