Mouchão: lovely wines from this traditional Alentejo winery
Website: https://mouchao.pt/en/
One of the most highly regarded Alentejo wineries, Mouchão has always been a bit different to its peers. I tasted with owner Ian Reynolds and winemaker Hamilton Reis.
Mouchão has been owned by the Reynolds family since the mid-19th century, when Thomas Reynolds set out south from Porto to the Alentejo in search of a cork estate. He found Mouchão, all 900 hectares of it. Even today the estate is mostly cork grove, with a bit of vineyard – although it’s the wine that it is known for.
In 1974 revolution, the Alentejo region became the setting for a rural uprising, and as part of this the Mouchão estate was taken over by the locals, who formed the 25th April Co-operative. Two things happened: the vineyards were trashed and a lot of the wine stored here was drunk. The property was restored to the family, who came back in 1985/86 and started a rebuilding program. Thus the vineyards have been completely replanted, but the winery has been left more-or-less alone, and the wines are made in a very traditional way.
Mouchão Ponte Verdelho 2023 Alentejo, Portugal
Mouchão found an old reference to Verdelho being grown on the estate, dating back to 1909. So in 2015 they top grafted 1.5 hectares to this variety, and then planted two more hectares. It works really well. Wild ferment, started in stainless steel and then goes to older 500 litre barrels for the majority of the fermentation. Concentrated, dense and lively with lovely presence. Mineral and expressive with good texture and nice depth, and a saline twist on the finish. Very fine. 94/100
Mouchão Ponte Tinto 2021 Alentejo, Portugal
This is made from the modern grape varieties on the estate – Syrah, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. There’s some in small wood, but most is raised in larger tonels. Fresh and aromatic with lovely density and a fine spiciness. Bold black cherry and blackberry fruit, and a slight tarry twist on the finish. So supple. 93/100
Mouchão 2017 Alentejo, Portugal
The main wine, a blend of 85% Alicante Bouschet and 15% Trincadeira. Only matured in tonels. Warm spicy nose with nice dried herb notes, some spice, and hints of earth. The palate is complex and layered with some grip. Very stylish and fresh with nice complexity and layers of flavour. Quite classic. 95/100
Mouchão Tonel No 3-4 2013 Alentejo, Portugal
100% Alicante, and always comes from the same parcel. Intense, floral and concentrated spice-laden nose. Concentrated palate is elegant but powerful with good tannins and nice acidity. Fresh and profound. 96/100
Mouchão Tonel Aged Sobremesa Dessert 2014 Alentejo, Portugal
This is a Port-style wine aged for 7 years in Tonel. Bold, vivid and spicy with nice development, but it still has lots of fruit and tannin. Grainy, spicy and not too sweet. 93/100
Older notes:
Mouchão Dom Rafael Branco 2019 Alentejo, Portugal
13% alcohol. A blend of Antão Vaz and Arinto. This is bright and fruity with a lovely pithy edge to the sweet citrus fruit, as well as a hint of melony richness. This has lovely weight of flavour with nice intensity and it’s fruit driven, bold and fresh. 90/100
Mouchão Dom Rafael Tinto 2018 Alentejo, Portugal
14% alcohol. This is an interesting blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Castelão and Alicante Bouschet. Fine spicy aromatics with sweet cherries and plums, as well as dried herbs and a twist of iodine. The palate is silky and sweetly fruited, but has spice and tannin countering the fruit. Just beautifully poised, with ripe fruit but also some restraint, and a lovely savoury, almost mineral counter to the fruit. Graceful and drinking very well now. 92/100
