Highlight : Testalonga Bandits Kloof Daisy’s Pond 2021, Swartland, South Africa
One of the stars of South Africa’s New Wave wine renaissance, Testalonga is Craig and Carla Hawkins’ personal project, dedicated to experimental wines and rescued grapes, often from old vineyards. They were the first of the Swartland Revolution collective to start their own vineyard project, back in 2015, when they moved to a farm in the northern reaches of the Swartland, nestled into the Olifantsberg mountain, called Bandits Kloof (Goode and I visited them on the farm in 2019). This is the first release from the vines they planted there in 2018, an organic Grenache Blanc from head pruned (high bush vines) young vines in decomposed sandstone and shale, at 380m. It was whole bunch pressed into 2 old 400L French barrels, where it took a full year to complete MLF. In all, it remained on full lees 21 months before racking the day prior to bottling, unfined and unfiltered. A waxy sheen underlay supports crystalline quince, verbena, meadow grass, elderflower, pine nut, and brightly shining lemon pith and peel that linger on the stony, saline finish. Ample tangy acidity and youthful energy in this slight (11.11%) white, which needs time in the glass to open and unfurl itself. 92/100
