Domínio Do Açor, an exciting new producer from Dão, Portugal
Website: https://dominiodoacor.com/en/
Domínio do Açor is a relatively new project in the Dão region, and it’s already in the peer group of the best producers in the region. It’s a vineyard-based project in village of Oliveira do Conde, in the Viseu district.
The property was bought by a consortium of Brazilian wine geeks, led by sommelier Guilherme Corrêa and Igor Beron. Guilherme describes himself as the regisseur (the Burgundian term for general manager), and winemaking is in the hands of Luis Lopes. On the ground viticulturist and winemaker is João Costa, who was previously at Niepoort’s Dão outpost Lomba.
The 11 hectare domaine has been divided into 8 vineyard blocks, and the approach here is very Burgundian in style, looking to find and express the differences between these ‘climats’. Terroir consultant Pedro Parra has helped them understand their sites, and they’ve also enlisted Marco Simonit to help with pruning the vines in the best way.
This is a very important project for the region, and they are making wines the right way. They are also doing interesting things such as grafting in some of the old varieties of the region.
THE WINES
Domínio Do Açor Villa Romana Branco 2023 Dão, Portugal
This is a blend of Encruzado, Sercial and Bical (no Malvasia Fina this year, they have grubbed it up). Reductive winemaking with no battonage, and two years on lees. Supple and fine with nice energy and mineral tension. Lovely weight and texture here with finesse and purity. Salty and fine. 94/100
Domínio Do Açor Cerceal Branco Vinha Ruina 2022 Dão, Portugal
13% alcohol. From a small plot, just one 500 litre used Stockinger barrel made of this. The wine spends two winters in barrel. It’s a phenolic variety. Nice structure. Complex, mineral and spicy with crystalline lemons and a marmalade twist. Very fine and textural with lovely acidity. 95/100
Domínio Do Açor Cerceal Branco Vinha Ruina 2023 Dão, Portugal
Fresh, stony and bright with some structure. Light and transparent, but long in the mouth. Pure, mineral and slightly saline. 95/100
Domínio Do Açor Bical Vinha Celta 2022 Dão, Portugal (magnum)
This is a 0.65 ha plot, planted 75% with Bical from 1961 (it also has 25% Jaen from the 1990s). Degraded granite soils. Very fine, mineral and textured with good acidity. Pure, long and finely spiced with appealing citrus fruit. Resolves nicely with a sweet acid line on the finish. 95/100
Domínio Do Açor Bical Vinha Celta 2023 Dão, Portugal
Open and textured with a sweet core of fine citrus fruit and some apple/cabbage detail, with nice weight in the mouth. Very textural. 94/100
Domínio Do Açor Encruzado 2023 Dão, Portugal
Supple, refined and juicy with some pear and a hint of melon. Nice texture and weight with some fine spicy detail. This has good energy and all the flavours are beautifully integrated. 95/100
Domínio Do Açor Alvarelhão Dão, Portugal
This is Brancellao in Galicia. Just one barrel for now. Lighter red in colour with supple, elegant red cherry and redcurrant fruit. So fine and elegant with some mineral characters and good freshness. Vital and energetic. 95/100
Domínio Do Açor Jaen Vinha Celta 2022 Dão, Portugal
12% alcohol. 1990s plantings, 30% whole bunch. Supple, vivid and juicy with lovely pure red cherry and berry fruit. Pure, fine and grainy with nice elegance and detail. 94/100
Domínio Do Açor Tinta Pinheira 2022 Dão, Portugal
12.5% alcohol. Destemmed. This is crunchy and bright with nice raspberry and red cherry fruit. Supple with hints of nice green. Good structure in the mouth showing precision and purity. 94/100
Domínio Do Açor Villa Romana Tinto 2021 Dão, Portugal
13.5% alcohol. This is entry level selling in Portugal at €18, and it’s a blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. Supple, ripe sweet fruit with generosity and freshness. Nice grip with some juicy freshness and some cherry and blackberry richness. 93/100
Domínio Do Açor Reserva 2021 Dão, Portugal (magnum)
14% alcohol. 60% Alfrocheiro, 40% Touriga Nacional. Floral and aromatic with notes of tar and roses, as well as sweet black cherries. The palate is fresh and supple with lovely blackberries and black cherries, as well as tar and spice. Vivid and rich, but still fresh, showing lovely complexity. 95/100
Older notes:
Dominio Do Açor Tinta Pinheira 2021 Dão, Portugal
12.5% alcohol. Supple with a lovely texture to the sweet cherry and berry fruit. This has a fine herb and pepper edge with some chalky mineral notes and nice acidity. There’s just enough structure. Has florality and freshness with a slight mulchy undercurrent. 93/100
Dominio Do Açor Jaen Vinha Velha 2021 Dão, Portugal
Supple, fresh and bright with a slight green hint to the sweet berry and cherry fruit. One the palate there’s a grainy edge to the textured, supple fruit. There’s also a hint of mint. Supple and fine with nice freshness, and a hint of pine needle under the fruit. 94/100
Dominio Do Açor Bical Vinha Velha 2021 Portugal
14% alcohol. This is concentrated with some lime and pear, showing a sweet fruit core. Slightly salty with fine spices. There’s richness but also focus and purity. Such lovely texture and freshness. 93/100
Dominio Do Açor Encruzado 2021 Dão, Portugal
13.5% alcohol. Complex, powerful but restrained with some spice and nuts, but also good acidity. Notes of citrus, mandarin and fine spicy notes on the finish, with a touch of almond. Quite crystalline with a mineral edge and some oxidative appley notes. Concentrated and bold with a hint of whisky. 92/100
Dominio Do Açor Cerceal Branco Vinha Ruina 2021 Dão, Portugal
13% alcohol. 230 magnums only made. This is complex and lively with bright citrus (lemon and mandarin) and hints of cheese, straw and dried herbs, with nervous acidity. There’s also a touch of flint and some spicy minerality. Beautifully expressive and very fine. 95/100
