English wine: there’s a new cool kid on the block – Sandridge Barton
Sandridge Barton is the new identity of leading Devon winery Sharpham who are making some innovative wines
Website: https://sandridgebarton.com/
I remember visiting Sharpham Estate, a winery in Devon, back in 1998. I was young, we were camping in the locality, and I was getting into wine quite seriously from an amateur perspective. We had a great visit, and even tasted with the winemaker, Duncan Schwab. The article from the visit is still on wineanorak https://wineanorak.com/eng4.htm – with some tiny, grainy, scanned photographs (people were still using dial-up then – well, those who were already on the internet – this was quite early days).
Fast forward 27 years, and Sharpham has recently morphed into Sandridge Barton, and Duncan is still involved (he’s now achieved legendary status in the English wine scene). There’s a new winemaker, though – Charlie Brown.
They moved from Sharpham in 2020 because they had always been on a 10 year rolling tenancy. They were already buying fruit from Sandridge Barton, and now they’ve also transitioned the brand from Sharpham to the name of their new home. Soils are limestone and the vineyard, of 45 acres, was planted between 2020 and 2023, so is still coming online. The climate fluctuates a bit so they have supplemented their grape sources by buying some in. From the 2023 vintage they are 100% estate. This gives them a lot of control, and also price stability, because buying grapes in the UK is a bit of a wild west scenario where the price is always changing. The portfolio is 75% still wine and 25% sparkling. Every ferment in the cellar is with wild yeast.
I tasted through this range with Charlie and Duncan, and came away impressed.
Sandridge Barton Figgie Daniel Madeleine Angevine Col Fondo 2023 Devon, England
11% alcohol. After weeks on fine lees, they bottle this and add 8 g/l sugar, and then it’s undisgorged. Slightly cloudy, this is bright, clean and fresh with a lovely acid line. Lovely purity and freshness here, and it’s fun. 91/100
Sandridge Barton Figgie Daniel Madeleine Angevine & Pinot Blanc Col Fondo 2022 Devon, England
12% alcohol. What used to be Sharpham, a well regarded Devon producer, is now Sandridge Barton Wines, and this is their col fondo. It opens without any gushing, and delivers bright, sweet citrus and pear fruit with some lovely zestiness, and then just a hint of English hedgerows. There’s some good acid here, and the modest fizziness works well in the context of the wine. Fruity and fun with nice focus and energy. Very clean and pure. 90/100
Sandridge Barton Classic Cuvée 2021 Devon, England
This is Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and a bit of reserve wine. 40% in barrel. 1.5 g/l dosage. Lively, bright, linear and focused with a hint of apple and spice. Lovely purity and keen acidity. 90/100
Sandridge Barton Classic Cuvée Rosé 2022 Devon, England
This is Pinot Noir, 25% in barrel. 2 g/l dosage. Pale pink in colour, this is bright and lively with juiciness and tartness. Pure with a hint of cranberry and lemon. Very stylish and focused, with a tart finish. Lovely purity. 92/100
Sandridge Barton Blanc de Noirs 2020 Devon, England
100% Pinot Noir, 50% barrel fermented. Zero dosage. Juicy, bright and tart with nice citrus and lime fruit, as well as keen acidity. Nicely tart. 90/100
Sandridge Barton Pinot Blanc 2022 Devon, England
This was two years in barrel, and was under flor for half that time. Tangy, bright and limey with some oxidative hints. Fresh, linear and stylish. 90/100
Sandridge Barton Dart Valley Reserve 2023 Devon, England
A blend of Madeleine Angevine, Bacchus, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, 25% barrel fermented. Bright and lively with notes of elderflower and hedgerows in May. Fresh with nice fruit. This is well balanced and delicious. 90/100
Sandridge Barton Furze Pinot Gris Madeleine Angevines 2021 Devon, England
10.5% alcohol. Fruity, bright and juicy with nice tart cherry and lime fruit, showing good purity and a hint of green. 89/100
Sandridge Barton Little Bee Pinot Gris Skin Contact 2023 Devon, England
This spends 23 days on the skins. There’s a bit of colour here. Juicy and bright with nice fresh acidity and a bit of structure. Tart and lovely. 91/100
Sandridge Barton Pinot Noir 2022 Devon, England
75% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Precoce, 9 months in barrel. Supple and juicy with red cherry and raspberry fruit with some crunch and nice tartness. Light, bright and fruity with nice weight and some crunch. 90/100
Sandridge Barton East Field Pinot Noir 2022 Devon, England
18 months in barrel. Nice structure and focus with juicy berries and cherries, as well as redcurrant and raspberry fruit with a bit of grip. 92/100
I also had a preview of a new wine, the Sonny Pinot Blanc, which has spent two years under flor. This is tangy, bright and very stylish, and it’s quite exciting.
