Tasting some Ports from Quinta do Infantado, an important Douro producer
Website: https://quintadoinfantado.com/en/
Infantado is a family-owned Quinta dating back to 1816. They were famous for being the first quinta to bottle Port wines in the Douro region in 1979, rather than sending the wine to Vila Nova de Gaia. Until 1986 when the laws changed, Port producers weren’t allowed to export wine that didn’t go through Gaia, which created a financial hurdle that ended up keeping small players out of the game. So for a number of years, Infantado made Ports and sold them domestically, before they were allowed to export. Infantado were also among the first in the region to farm organically, starting back in 1990.
Infantado are based in a privileged part of the valley, in Covas de Douro in the Cima Corgo, not far from Pinhão. They have 46 hectares of vineyards. João Roseira heads things (pictured top) up assisted by his cousin, Alváro Roseira (pictured above, with João), who is in charge of winemaking. Recently they have started a negociant arm, with the wines bottled Infantado as opposed to Quinta do Infantado.
The Ports are aged in the old cellar, which is quite beautiful, and even has some resident bats. Usually about 60% of the Infantado production is Port. These Ports were on show at the tasting of their new UK importers, Graft, who for now just take the Ports and not the also-excellent table wines.
Quinta do Infantado White Port NV Douro, Portugal
19.5% alcohol. This is a blend of Gouveio, Rabigato, Viosinho and Moscatel Galego, sourced from grade ‘A’ vineyards (Pousado, Serra de Cotas and Vale de Moinhos, totally 3.5 hectares in all. Partially destemmed, fermented in lagar and tank with 6 months maceration after fermentation is stopped with 77% alcohol brandy and then aged in an 8000 litre old wooden tank and some smaller casks. Orange/gold in colour this is powerful and intense with notes of orange peel, mint and spice. Lively with amazing complexity and some tannin. 94/100
Quinta do Infantado Ruby Port NV Douro, Portugal
19.5% alcohol. Sourced from grade ‘A’ vineyards (Serra Douro, Lapa, Castelos, 10 hectares in all). Whole bunches, foot trodden in lagar, fortified with 77% brandy and aged 24-30 months in old wooden tanks. João calls this his ‘Beaujolais Villages’ Port. Ripe, rich and fruit driven with lovely weight, showing some pepper spice, sweet cherries and plums and lovely refinement. Great fruit intensity. 93/100
Quinta do Infantado Late Bottled Vintage Port 2021 Douro, Portugal
The driest Port they have ever made with just 50 g/l sugar. This has lovely energy with some sweetness but also good structure. Dried herbs and spice, as well as some pepper. Nice definition here. 94/100
Quinta do Infantado Vintage Port 2015 Douro, Portugal
19.5% alcohol. Sourced from old vines from grade ‘A’ vineyards, Serra Douro and Serra de Baixo, 7.5 hectares in total. Partially destemmed, fermented in lagar, aged 22 months in large old wooden tanks, bottled in 2017. Powerful and fresh with nice energy to the black cherry and blackberry fruit. Lots of precision here. Quite serious. 95/100
Quinta do Infantado 10 Year Old Tawny Port NV Douro, Portugal
Field blend from grade ‘A’ parcels (Serra de Baixo, Serra de Cotas, Vale de Moinhos, 6 hectares in all). Aged 8-15 years in large old casks. Complex, spicy and floral with some lovely cherry fruit as well as notes of aniseed, white pepper and some spicy complexity. This still has fruit and a bit of grip. 94/100
Quinta do Infantado 20 Year Old Tawny Port NV Douro, Portugal
Field blend from grade ‘A’ parcels (Serra de Baixo, Serra de Cotas, Vale de Moinhos, 6 hectares in all). Aged 15-30 years in large old casks. Very pale in colour, Complex, floral and aromatic with nice texture and notes of cherries and almonds, as well as some oak spice. Textural and fine. 95/100
UK agent: Graft Wine
