Highlights: three special editions from Hush Heath, England
This is a special edition trio of wines from Kent-based winery Hush Heath, with each wine being a personal project for one of the winemaking team. The labels for these wines were specially commissioned from contemporary British artist Keith Coventry. They aren’t cheap, but they are very impressive, characterful wines. And the Blanc de Blancs is a zero dosage, which may be the UK’s first.
Hush Heath Estate This Septered Isle 2018 England
12% alcohol. This is a special edition still wine from Hush Heath made by Fergus Elias, from the seven permitted Champagne grape varieties: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Petit Meslier and Arbanne (hence the pun on ‘sept’ in the name). Fermented and aged on lees in stainless steel tanks. Lively and expressive with some grapey hints, and a fine nuttiness. Crisp lemony notes with some ripe, baked apple hints. Really expressive with a touch of peachy exoticism. Lovely acid line, too. Good balance. 90/100 (c. £40)
Hush Heath Estate Victoria Ash Blanc de Blancs MV England
This special edition from Victoria Ash involved blending together Chardonnay from the 2012 and 2013 vintages. Aged for a year in Burgundy barrels it then spent five years on the lees, and has no dosage. This is precise and pure with appealing lemony fruit and notes of apple, pear and hazelnut, with a hint of fennel. Structured with good acidity providing a foil to the fine citrus fruit. Stylish, taut and precise. 92/100 (c £80)
Hush Heath Estate The Red Miller 2018 England
12% alcohol. A special edition still wine, this was made by Owen Elias. This was a single parcel of Pinot Meunier that did very well in the 2018 vintage. Harvested on the 19th of October. Just three days on skins. It had a brief spell in French and American oak. This has a gorgeous sweet and sour red fruits nose with some sappy green notes as well as redcurrants and red cherries. It’s light, silky, elegant and expressive, and supremely drinkable. There’s a real lightness of being to this wine. 91/100 (c. £40)
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