Washington State wine: Gramercy Cellars, Walla Walla
Greg Harrington has the coveted Master Sommelier (MS) qualification (he got it aged just 26), and in 2005 he started a winery in Walla Walla that is now regarded to be one of the top destinations in Washington State (and by extension, the USA) for Syrah. Working with co-winemaker Brandon Moss, Harrington is making wines of poise, restraint and balance, with an old world sensibility to them.
Greg and his wife Pam were living in Manhattan, but sold up and made the jump to Walla Walla after just a single visit! It sounds impulsive, but they were convinced enough that this was the place to make the sorts of wines they wanted to. Brandon joined as assistant winemaker in 2008, and became co-winemaker in 2014. While Syrah got them noticed, they also make some very smart wines from the Bordeaux varieties that Washington State has championed so well.
Winemaking is just as it should be. No reliance on new oak for flavour, picking early, and classic elevage. Production is around 8000 cases a year.
Gramercy Cellars Lagniappe Red Willow Vineyard Syrah 2016 Washington State, USA
Fresh, vivid and sweetly fruited with red cherries, raspberries and a nice lush mid-palate. Finishes bright and peppery: very expressive. 94/100
Gramercy Cellars John Lewis Syrah 2017 Washington State, USA
Sweetly aromatic with ripe redcurrant fruit and a touch of raspberry, as well as some pepper and red cherry. Elegant, pure and bright with lovely texture and keen acidity. Shows taut structure and sweet fruit, which makes for a lovely combination. 94/100
Gramercy Cellars Lower East Syrah 2017 Washington State, USA
This is a lovely wine, and it’s one of the more affordable Grammercys, which is a great thing. Light, bright and supple with bright red cherries. Lighter style with some peppery framing. Pretty and expressive with a juicy finish. 94/100
Gramercy Cellars Columbia Valley Syrah 2015 Washington State, USA
These wines do develop well. This shows vivid red fruits with lots of pepper. Fresh and vivid with bright raspberry and red cherry fruit. Lovely structure under the vivid fruit. Fresh and expressive with lovely precision. 95/100
Gramercy Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Washington State, USA
Supple blackcurrant fruit with some tar, spice and gravel. Very lively with nice focus. Lots of spiciness here. Brooding and quite serious. 93/100
Gramercy Cellars Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 Washington State, USA
Vivid, focused blackcurrant fruit with sweet black cherries and some fresh acidity. Shows nice purity and there’s a linear drive to the fruit. Very expressive. 94/100
Gramercy Cellars Le Pre du Col Pinot Noir 2017 Willamette Valley, Oregon
Supple with attractive red cherry and raspberry fruit. Has a fine herbal edge and an appealing textured, showing good balance and some precision. 93/100
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