The wines of Mann, Alsace
Domaine Jean-Louis et Fabienne Mann is based in Eguisheim, 7 kilometers south of Colmar. The family used to deliver wines to the co-op but began making their own wines in 1998. They’ve farmed their 12 hectares of vines organically since 2004, and have been certified since 2008. Since the arrival of Jean-Louis and Fabienne’s son Sebastien, they’ve taken farming in a biodynamic direction.
Winemaking is in stainless steel (some oak is used for the reds), after hand harvest in small crates, whole bunch pressing and natural settling. The results are impressive. These wines are available from The Sourcing Table, and I declare an interest here as contributing editor.
Mann Vignobles des 3 Terres Crémant d’Alsace 2017 Alsace, France
13.5% alcohol. This is a blend of Auxerrois, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir. Complex, aromatic nose of apples and lemons with some cream and spice. The palate is complex and lively, with lovely crystalline lemony fruit, some vibrant spiciness, and nice appley character too. Some pastry notes in the mix as well. Lovely complexity here, with a salty edge. 93/100 (£26 The Sourcing Table)
Mann Vignobles des 3 Terres Nuances de Pinots Blanc & Gris 2016 Alsace, France
14% alcohol. This is broad and textural with pear and baked apple, as well as some table grape and spice. There’s just a touch of sweetness and the reasonably high alcohol works with this to add a soft, smooth mouthfeel. Lovely freshness and complexity here, with a nice baked apple finish. 92/100 (£19.50 The Sourcing Table)
Mann Riesling Altengarten 2018 Alsace, France
13.5% alcohol. From the lieu dit Altengarten this is from pink granite over limestone bedrock. This is powerful and limey with intense citrus fruit, with good acidity and real volume in the mouth. It’s quite dry but has some flesh. A powerful, intense expression of Riesling. 93/100 (£25 The Sourcing Table)
Mann Grand Cru Pfersigberg Riesling 2017 Alsace, France
13.5% alcohol. Marl and limestone. Deep coloured, this is concentrated and intense, but also has a roundness and elegance. There’s some melony richness and a touch of sweetness as well as finely wrought citrus fruit, with a touch of apricot, too. Broad and expansive with lovely fruit, and a real sense of refinement. Such lovely texture. 95/100 (£40 The Sourcing Table)