Assessing the range from UK retailer Laithwaites, with full notes and scores
Website: https://www.laithwaites.co.uk/
Laithwaites are a major UK retailer, and they made their name as the premier mail order operator in the days before the internet. They are also one of the few wine retail operations to make lots of money, and it’s because of their clever business model. They worked at high margin, offering exclusive wines (mainly soft brands, where they worked with a partner winery, producing good clean wines and then making up a good name for them) – the two often go together, because you never want to look expensive. Their customer acquisition was one of their great triumphs, and they did this by offering very cheap, loss-leader introductory cases, and then signing people up to their club. It’s an expensive way to acquire customers, but it works. The customers would be sent regular cases of good quality but somewhat over-priced wine (high margin requirements), but usually they’d be happy enough.
It’s perhaps for this reason that Laithwaites have not always been fully loved by some of the wine press. We admire the business model, but for our readers there are often more affordable ways to drink just as well.
It seems that Laithwaites may be changing a bit, though. If you go into any of their physical shops (yes, they have some – it was a later addition to the business model), alongside their private label wines there are lots of good producer wines, and with the multibuy (12 bottle discount) they are perfectly well priced. If you pick and choose, there’s a lot to like in their range. There are still some private label wines, often a bit over-made, in the selection here, but I found some nice surprises too. These are full notes on their latest press tasting, held virtually with small bottle samples. The wines are in no particular order.
Please note: these are small bottle samples, so bear that in mind when reading the reviews. I have no knowledge of the way they were prepared.
David Duband Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes du Nuits 2018 Bourgogne, France
13% alcohol
£27 Laithwaites, £23.99 mix 12
Sweetly fruited and supple with cherries and plums as well as some spicy undertones. Fresh and vivid with a hint of pepper as well as some silkiness, but finishing structured. Very stylish with nice complexity. 93/100
Domaine Jean Chatron Rully 2020 Bourgogne, France
13% alcohol
£22 Laithwaites, £19.80 mix 12
Nicely concentrated with ripe pear, apple and citrus fruit. Has some spicy depth with some mineral notes and a long, bright lemony finish, as well as some subtle nutty richness. 90/100
L’Etrangère Aligoté 2020 Bourgogne, France
12% alcohol
£15.99 Laithwaites, £13.99 mix 12
Nice aromatics: lemony and stony with some hints of wax and citrus peel. The palate has lovely minerality, good acidity and a crystalline texture to the apple and lemon fruit. Very stylish. 92/100
Domaine de Bouchat Saint Bris 2020 Bourgogne, France
12% alcohol
£17.99 Laithwaites, £15.99 mix 12
Sauvignon from Bourgogne, only found in Saint Bris. This is very stylish with a faint hint of rhubarb alongside elderflower and citrus fruit, with nice delicacy and a fine, tapering, spicy grapefruit finish. 91/100
Danaris Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Austria
12.5% alcohol
£14.99 Laithwaites, £11.99 mix 12
This is really lively with keen acidity adding freshness to the bright citrus fruit, and a really appealing, almost exotic elderflower character, as well as some pear drops. Fruit forward and intense. 90/100
Château Vartely Viorica 2020 Moldova
13% alcohol
£9.99 Laithwaites, £7.99 mix 12
Viorica is a Moldovan grape variety that makes wines that actually taste of table grapes. This is aromatic and grapey, with nice pure fruit, finishing dry, but with a lot of exotic fruitiness. 89/100
Kutjevo Graševina 2020 Slavonia, Croatia
12% alcohol
£11.99 Laithwaites, £10.79 mix 12
A deliciously bright, layered white wine with intense lemon and pear fruit and some fine spicy hints. Lots to like here: this is fruity and easy, but has a hint of seriousness, too. 91/100
Campanaula Pinot Grigio 2020 Dunántúli, Hungary
12.5% alcohol
£9.99 Laithwaites, £8.99 mix 12
A lively, full flavoured expression of Pinot Gris with a fine spicy edge to the vivid citrus fruit, and a touch of apple and grapefruit too. Modern and delicious. 88/100
Alambrado Malbec Bianco 2021 Mendoza, Argentina
12% alcohol
£11.99 Laithwaites, £10.79 mix 12
Fresh, bright, tart and fruity with a nice lemony character and a some grapefruit pith, too. Crisp and direct. 87/100
Stones and Bones Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Lisboa, Portugal
12.5% alcohol
£10.99 Laithwaites, £9.99 mix 12
This is a fresh, fruity style of Sauvignon Blanc with easy pear and citrus fruit, a touch of tomato leaf and green pepper, and some mandarin on the finish. Fruity, light and well balanced. 87/100
Maria Fadista Rosé 2020 Setúbal, Portugal
12% alcohol
£9.99 Laithwaites, £8.99 mix 12
Pale pink, this is a juicy, zesty rosé made from a blend of traditional Portuguese grape varieties, with some strawberries and cream as well as a bit of lemony freshness. It’s dry but sweetly fruited. 85/100
Vilarissa Grande Reserva 2019 Douro, Portugal
15% alcohol
£27 Laithwaites, £24.30 mix 12
Deeply coloured, this Douro red has sweet, intense aromas of blackberries and blackcurrant, with some spiciness. In the mouth it shows great concentration of sweet black fruits, with a touch of mint and some cedary spice. A real impact wine with lots of sweet ripe fruit. 92/100
Zuccardi Concreto Malbec 2019 Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina
14% alcohol
£25 Laithwaites, £21.99 mix 12
This is whole cluster vinified and matured in concrete. It’s an immense, vivid, but beautifully balanced wine with a whack of fresh black cherry and blackberry fruit, supported by grainy tannins and a strong stony, mineral streak. Just a lot of very refined fruit here, with floral aromas and the stuffing to develop in bottle. Brilliant stuff. 94/100
HJ Fabre Patagonia Malbec 2019 Argentina
14.5% alcohol
£16.49 Laithwaites, £12.29 mix 12
Hervé Fabre has a talent for making award-winning wines, and this comes from 30 year old Malbec vines in Patagonia’s Rio Negro. It’s floral and aromatic, and has a sleek black fruits character with some hints of olive and cured meat. Finishes fresh and vivid. Such great balance here. 93/100
Pierre Brecht Cuvée Cinq 2020 Alsace, France
12.5% alcohol
£10.49 Laithwaites, £9.39 mix 12
A blend of five different varieties. Aromatic, fruity, grapey nose leads to a rounded but dry palate with some lychee, table grape, tinned pear and citrus. Attractive fruity style. 87/100
Abbesse Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Loire, France
12% alcohol
£10.49 Laithwaites, £9.49 mix 12
This is bright, juicy and grassy with some lime notes as well as a hint of elderflower. Has keen acidity. Lots of fruit here: it’s typical Sauvignon. 85/100
Domaine Michel Thomas Sancerre 2020 Loire France
13.5% alcohol
£17.99 Laithwaites, £15.99 mix 12
This is grassy and bright with some ripe pear and a touch of tropical richness, finishing fruity and bright. A modern, well made, fruit-driven Sancerre. 88/100
Roche Bellemont Blanc 2020 Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, France
12.5% alcohol
£15.49 Laithwaites, £13.89 mix 12
This is juicy and bright – a blend of Vermentino and Grenache Blanc – with clean fresh citrus fruit and a slight hint of cherry on the finish. 88/100
Maison Dominique Piron Beaujolais-Villages 2020 France
13.5% alcohol
£12.99 Laithwaites, £9.99 mix 12
This is floral, ripe and a bit chocolatey with lush cherry and berry fruits. This is Gamay at its fruitiest and richest, in a modern crowd-pleasing style with good freshness as well as sweet berry fruits. 89/100
Don Aldo Olivier PXC 2020 Elqui, Chile
12.5% alcohol
£9.99 Laithwaites, £6.99 mix 12
This is a fruity blend of Pedro Ximenez and Chardonnay from high altitude Elqui. It’s rounded, fruity and has a touch of sweetness. Some honey and grape richness here. 84/100
Santa Magdalena Balduzzi Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2020 Maule, Chile
13.5% alcohol
£10.99 Laithwaites, £8.98 mix 12
Concentrated, ripe and sleek with a green, chalky edge to the sweet, lush blackcurrant fruit. It’s a rich wine with freshness as well as lush ripe fruit. Lots to like here. 88/100
Visionario 2020 Friuli, Italy
12.5% alcohol
£11.99 Laithwaites, £9.99 mix 12
A blend of five varieties, blending local with international. This is fruity and rounded with some citrus, pear, apple and melon notes. Sweetly fruited and accessible with a touch of pithiness on the finish. 86/100
W/O Frappato 2020 Sicily, Italy
12.5% alcohol
£12.99 Laithwaites, £9.99 mix 12
Organic. Fruity and open on the nose with aromatic cherries and plums. It’s fresh and very fruity on the palate with some raspberry and sweet cherry, carrying a very sweet fruit profile. Finishes fresh. Lots of pleasure here. 88/100
Tenuta Fenice Nero d’Avola 2020 Sicily, Italy
14.5% alcohol
£11.49 Laithwaites, £9.99 mix 12
This is chunky and a bit grippy with nice raspberry and cherry fruit. There’s a touch of tar and a hint of sweetness on the finish. A really nice fruit-forward example of this grape. 90/100
Rapaura Springs Pinot Noir 2019 Marlborough, New Zealand
13% alcohol
£21 Laithwaites, £18.90 mix 12
Juicy, bright and nicely focused with plum and cherry fruit, showing good definition and a bit of structure. Quite some substance here for a Marlborough Pinot. Sleek and polished, with a bit of olive too. 91/100
Von Reben Pinot Noir 2020 Pfalz, Germany
12.5% alcohol
£10.99 Laithwaites, £9.99 mix 12
Bright and fruity with some red cherries and plums, as well as a savoury, spicy edge. There’s nice structure under the fruit, but the main theme here is fresh red fruits. Supple and drinkable. 88/100
Balfour This Septered Isle 2018 England
12% alcohol
£32 Laithwaites, £28.80 mix 12
Blending together seven varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Arbanne, Pinot Meunier – all of which are allowed in Champagne, this is a lovely layered, textural white with lemon, mandarin, apple and pear fruit as well as some creamy richness and then finishing with brisk acidity. Very stylish. 92/100
The Escapist Sauvignon Blanc 2021 Western Cape, South Africa
12.5% alcohol
£8.99 Laithwaites
Bright and fruit driven with pear and citrus, with a nice rounded character and pure, ripe fruit. There’s just a hint of elderflower to complement the primary fruit. 85/100
Newton Johnson Southend Chardonnay 2020 Hemel-en-Aarde, South Africa
13.5% alcohol
£15.99 Laithwaites, £14.39 mix six price
This has lovely textured pear and white peach fruit with some nut and spice notes adding savoury interest. Powerful and expressive, with good acidity, this has potential for development. 93/100
Eylo Verdejo 2020 Rueda, Spain
13.5% alcohol
£10.99 Laithwaites, £8.99 mix six
Classic Verdejo, and interesting variety that does well in this part of Spain. Bright and citrussy with some nice depth and a touch of pithy structure, as well as some green apple and baked pear richness. Stylish dry white. 88/100
Les Deux Soeurs NV Bordeaux, France
12.5% alcohol
£10.99 Laithwaites
This is unusual in that it blends together three vintages, 2018, 19 and 20. It’s a blend of Sauvignon Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. It’s really interesting with a green hint and some elderflower as well as pear and citrus fruit. Stylish with a hint of fennel and nice texture and balance. 89/100
Miles From Nowhere Great Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc 2020 Australia
13% alcohol
£13.49 Laithwaites, £11.99 mix 12
Really distinctive with a chalky, green pepper pyrazine edge to the chunky, bright kiwi, citrus and pear fruit. Has a pithy finish. 84/100
Harmonie Rox 2021 Coonawarra, Australia
13.5% alcohol
£12.99 Laithwaites, £11.69 mix 12
This is 100% Chardonnay, and it has lovely bold melon and pear fruit with some spicy citrus notes, and hints of cinnamon and clove in the background. Lots of flavour here, blending sweet but brisk fruit with very spicy oak notes. 84/100
Cuvée de L’Oppidum Blanc 2020 Côtes du Rhone, France
13% alcohol
£14.99 Laithwaites
Bringing together Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, this is richly fruited and textural with peach and pear, as well as notes of aniseed and spice. A rich dry white with lots of impact, and a soft texture. 88/100
Le Roi Soleil Cabrières Rosé 2020 Languedoc, France
12.5% alcohol
£14.99 Laithwaites
Pale pink in colour, this has a creamy texture with some broad strawberry and touches of herbs. There’s a faint hint of pine, too. Nice fruit. 87/100
Lamargue Rosé 2020 Sable de Camargue, France
12.5% alcohol
£12.99 Laithwaites
From 11 different grape varieties, this pale rosé has notes of mandarin, peach and cherry, as well as some citrus. It’s dry brightly fruited, with good acidity. 86/100
La Voute Chardonnay 2020 Limoux, France
14% alcohol
£13.99 Laithwaites
Fermented in new oak barrels, this is a rich, ripe Chardonnay with nutty, mealy notes from the oak as well as sweet pear and peach fruit. It’s bold and luxurious with nice weight. 88/100
Vertiges 2020 Vallée du Paradis, Languedoc, France
14% alcohol
£10.99 Laithwaites
Blending together Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, this is a lovely aromatic red with flavours of cherries, spice and pepper, as well as some lush blackberry. It’s generous, balanced, textured and delicious. 91/100
Château Guillem de Montjustin 2019 Corbières, Languedoc, France
15% alcohol
£19.99 Laithwaites
Intense and ripe on the nose with some notes of rubber and spice as well as ripe black fruits. The palate has concentration and depth, showing ripe fruit but also a savoury dried herb and pepper edge. Striking. 90/100
Balfour Luke’s Pinot Noir 2020 Kent, England
12.5% alcohol
£22 Laithwaites
Freshly aromatic with red cherries and herbs, this has flavours of fresh red cherry, plum and raspberry, with nice texture and also some sappy green notes. It’s youthful and fresh but has nice structure, with lovely fruit presence. Ripe, but with some nice green hints. Elegant style. 90/100
Castillo de Epifania 2020 Rioja, Spain
14.5% alcohol
£10.99 Laithwaites
This comes from Rioja Alta, at 500 m altitude. Wonderfully rich and intense with some cedar and clove spice sitting under rich, bold, pepper blackberry and black cherry fruit. A concentrated, rich, focused dry red. 92/100
Altos R Pigeage Tempranillo 2016 Rioja, Spain
14.5% alcohol
£23 Laithwaites, £16 mix 12 price
Concentrated and intense with sweet blackcurrant and blackberry fruit, as well as some spicy, cedary oak. It’s a powerful, complex wine of real intensity with lovely fruit. Very stylish and potentially long-lived. 94/100
Toinon Merlot 2020 Bordeaux, France
14.5% alcohol
£12.99 Laithwaites, £9.99 mix 12
From limestone soils. Concentrated, intense and very stylish with a wall of ripe black cherry and blackcurrant fruit. This is fresh and focused with good acidity and plenty of chalky structure. 90/100
L’Epiphanie de Margaux 2019 Bordeaux, France
14.5% alcohol
£35 Laithwaites, £31.50 mix 12
This is quite classy with a gravelly edge to the sweet blackcurrant fruit, as well as some firm structure. It’s a classic Bordeaux in style, showing good concentration and a nice savoury edge to the fruit. Has potential for development. 92/100
