Back in 2018 I tried the wines of Arnaux-Lachaux with the young Charles Lachaux, who’d taken over the family domaine. I was blown away: this was my first experience of the wines, and what he was doing in the vineyard and cellar seemed spot on. This was the first time I’d tried these wines, which have since developed a stellar reputation.
In 2018 he started a negociant operation, driven by his love of Aligoté. He bought the family’s Aligoté for this, and expanded the range in the following year to six wines. The prices for these have gone ballistic, so I didn’t think I’d get to try them. But in Chile this week, the De Martino brothers who import them brought the Aligoté to dinner. Wine searcher has some listings of this wine at £900 per bottle.
This wine comes from a 0.6 hectare block of Aligote planted in the 1930s and 1990 at the bottom of Vosne-Romanée, and is vinified without any sulfites.
Charles Lachaux Aligoté Les Champs d’Argent 2018 Bourgogne, France
This is textured and compact with sweet pear and citrus fruit. Taut and mineral with some depth. There’s a slight salinity and a crystalline quality with fine, spicy, peppery notes. Lots of interest here. 94/100
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