Catching up on the Bourgogne whites of Jules Desjourneys

As Goode detailed in his 2018 post, the Jules Desjourneys wines have rightfully caught the attention of many. I caught up with the negoce-turned-vigneron’s impressive 2017 Southern Bourgogne whites recently.

Fabien Duperray is a well known wine agent name, representing some of the finest Bourgogne estates, including DRC, Arnaud Ente, and Coche-Dury among others. However, he wanted to try his hand at making amazing wine, not just selling it. In 2007 he purchased gnarly old Gamay vineyards in Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent (some 140+ years old), and he added some Chardonnay parcels from select Côte Macconais sites in 2014, which he shares with Christophe Thibert. Farming is biodynamic, everything is done by hand (tractor-free), and yields are low. The name of the winery pays homage to Jules Chauvet, the winemaker, scientist, and Beaujolais native who is often credited for launching the natural wine movement.

Jules Desjourneys Pouilly-Fuissé 2017
This Pouilly-Fuissé comes from a mix of schist soils, and calcareous-clays, was native fermented and aged partially in older wood. This is vibrance, with tight, nimble, driving salinity streaming the length of this mineral driven wine. there’s a buzzy textural component running the length of the bottom, and stretching this very long and taut on the palate. Impressive. 92/100

Jules Desjourneys Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes Blanches 2017
Les Vignes Blanches is a steeply-sloping vineyard facing southeast in the heart of Fuissé. It was native fermented and vinified 80% in tanks and 20% in new barrels, before aging in barrels. Such a profound wine, with deep chalk imbuing lemon peel, green apple, and flake salt. Structural, full bodied, powerful, but still with a lightness of being that is strung taut and vibrating along the saline finish. Tasting beautifully now, and with ample time ahead. 94/100

Jules Desjourneys Pouilly-Fuissé Vignes de la Côte 2017
This is a cuvée that includes fruit from all of the south-facing slopes they work in Fuissé. Such a wine. Precise, powerful, with an ample flick of reduction, this streams along a purposeful palate, with green apple, lemon pith and lemon peel, fresh hazelnut, light pastry, through a lingering vibrato saline finish. Quite structural and straight, this is drinking beautifully now, with time ahead. 93/100

Jules Desjourneys Pouilly-Vinzelles Les Longeays 2017
Les Longays Pouilly-Vinzelles comes from an east facing vineyard on clay limestone, and a small portion spends time in oak. Bright and nimble, with lemon pith, lemon peel tightening a lightly creamy / silken palate, framed with toasted wood, and finishing with a twist of lemon pith and a swath of reduction. Quite striking. 92/100

Jules Desjourneys Mâcon-Prissé En Chailloux 2017
From a gently sloping site, with slightly gravelly clay loam soil, this was native fermented and spent time in tank. Interesting flick of reduction on this, sharpening a pure core of green apple, lemon blossom, and rock salts. Great length across a lingering, buzzy finish. 91/100

Jules Desjourneys Mâcon-Verzé 2017
This comes from the top of a very chalky, gently west-facing slope outside of Verzé. Ripe and creamy, with red and yellow apple, honeydew, rich cream, creamed corn, lit with vibrant lemon zestiness. The medium+ palate finishes with broken stones and a lemon twist. 89/100

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Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]