The wines of Keuka Lake Vineyards, Finger Lakes, New York State
Website: https://www.klvineyards.com/
At the FLXcursion event in Geneva, New York, I caught up with Mel Goldman to taste his Keuka Lake wines in a car park. It was the only chance, and he had the samples with him, so why not?
Mel bought the vineyard in 1993. It had some 150 year old Concord, plus Charles Fournier’s experimental hybrid vineyard and some Seyval next door. The rest he planted. He has 18 acres of Riesling, 5 acres of Vignoles and 8 acres of Cabernet Franc. They don’t use herbicides or toxic chemicals.
Back in 1990, Mel helped harvest grapes at Breaky Bottom in Sussex, England!
Keuka Lake Seyval Blanc Pet Nat 2022 Finger Lakes, New York State
10.3% alcohol. Lively, zesty and bright with lovely pure fruit and juicy cherries and lime sherbet notes. So bright. 90/100
Keuka Lake Falling Man Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes, New York State
Planted in 2001. Textured and fine; fresh and spicy. Shows lovely weight and nice purity, with a touch of grainy structyre under the fruit. 92/100
Keuka Lake 20 Rows Dry Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes, New York State
This is from a 4 acre plot. Highly aromatic with lovely crystalline citrus fruit and expressive sweet pear. Such delicate structure here. 92/100
Keuka Lake Dry Riesling 2020 Finger Lakes, New York State
Supple and fine-grained with nice lemon and pear fruit, showing some delicacy. Nice juicy fruit here. So expressive with nice fruit. 91/100
Keuka Lake Dry Riesling Goldman Vineyard 2015 Finger Lakes, New York State
Planted in 1998. Nicely aromatic with some development. This has crystalline citrus fruit with nice pear and peach richness, as well as a hint of mint. 93/100
Keuka Lake Falling Man Dry Riesling 2009 Finger Lakes, New York State
This is one of the coolest years Mel has experienced, harvested 2 November. Lovely full nose of mint, apricot and citrus with good precision and crystalline citrus fruit, together with honey and toast. So fresh and pure, and complex and lively. 94/100
Keuka Lake Vignoles Dry 2009 Finger Lakes, New York State
Lovely aromatics here: lemon and lime with some mandarin and also some spicy detail. Lovely freshness, with some mineral notes and a lovely acid line. Juicy, linear and full of interest. 93/100
Keuka Lake Cabernet Franc 2014 Finger Lakes, New York State
Supple and sweetly fruited with elegant, silky strawberry and cherry fruit. Fresh and detailed with a supple personality, showing nice fruit and a lively elegance. 92/100
Keuka Lake Cabernet Franc 2017 Finger Lakes, New York State
Lovely structure here: juicy and linear with nice bright raspberry and cherry fruit, as well as some nice grippy structure. Lovely plum and blackberry fruit. Really fine. 93/100
Keuka Lake Cabernet Franc 2012 Finger Lakes, New York State
This shows a nice green edge to the cherry and blackcurrant fruit. It’s supple, elegant and fresh with nice sweet fruit and a chalky dimension, as well as enough structure. A lovely wine that has developed beautifully. 94/100
Older notes
Keuka Lake Vineyards Vignoles Dry 2017 Finger Lakes, New York State, USA
13.5% alcohol. From three different vineyards. This is quite rich and fruity with some table grape, melon and peach notes. There’s a hint of spice and marmalade, too. It finishes bright with a touch of sweetness. Juicy, a bit of sweetness, nice purity, and plenty of volume here. Very attractive. 87/100
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