Highlights: Mullineux and Sadie at Noble Rot Mayfair
Had a lovely lunch this week at Noble Rot Mayfair, the third restuarant in the Noble Rot franchise after Lambs Conduit Street and Soho. It was my second time eating there, and the set lunch is the one to go for: a bargain at £22 for two courses, £26 for three. Then this gives you some spending room to assault the wine list. It’s a brilliantly put together list. You can spend a lot of money here if you raid the Coravin list, or want something famous and fancy. But the real interest is in the £40-80 range where you can drink fabulously well if you are feeling a little adventurous.
We opted for South Africa, and two of the top names. The Mullineux white 2022 is superb, and a good buy at £67. Sadie’s Treinspoor was a little more (£94), but still very fairly priced, and you simply don’t get to find the old vine series very often. Food was spot on, with an extra portion of the girolles in addition to the set lunch menu.
Mullineux Old Vines White 2022 Swartland, South Africa
13.5% alcohol. This is textured and focused with ripe pear and white peach and a lovely crystalline quality, as well as some grapefruit freshness. There’s some spice and even a trace of white pepper, and an appealing mineral quality. Such purity and finesse, combining depth with some mineral focus and good acidity. Balance is the key. 94/100
Sadie Treinspoor 2020 Swartland, South Africa
13.5% alcohol. Tinta Barocca. Lovely texture and freshness here with bright raspberries and cherries to the fore. So elegant and fine with some chalky notes, a touch of spice and minerals, and a combination of density yet freshness. I love this wine: it’s elegant and finely poised with real dynamic range, and notes of dust and pepper on the finish. 95/100
