Exploring Lirac (5) Domaine des Carabiniers ‘Biodynamic Wine’
Website: https://www.biodynamicwine.bio/en/
It’s perhaps surprising to find a domaine branded as ‘biodynamic wine’. But that’s how Domaine des Carabiniers describe themselves. Fabien Leperchois hosted us in the impressively kitted out cellar, and he also showed us the weed-defeating machinery used in the vineyards. In 1997 his father went organic, and later biodynamic.
They have 14 hectares of distinctive soils on one site, and then 5 hectares over the road. They also have another 4.8 hectares in Tavel, Côtes du Rhône and Vin de Pays. They began farming biodynamically in 2009. They try to preserve natural vegetation on the soils, and then use composted marc on all the vineyard one year in three. They have planted olive trees and kept native garrigue to increase biodiversity.
They also try to have a balance between new technology (lighter tractors with less compaction of soil) and more traditional farming techniques. They do mechanical harvest at night to reduce the effect of oxidation when they process the grapes: some would say that this is lower quality than hand picking, but that would take longer and require more energy to cool the grapes. They use optical sorting for better quality grapes, thus reducing the need for sulfites in vinification.
Domaine des Carabiniers Tavel 2023 (tank sample)
Fabien says, ‘for me Tavel is not a rosé, it is Tavel. It is a very small appellation and it is not possible to compete with Provence.’ This is a deep pink red colour, with some power to the fruit as well as notes of spice and a bit of tannin. Hint of aniseed on the finish. 93/100
Domaine des Carabiniers Lirac Blanc 2023 (from barrel)
Lovely citrus and pear fruit with some aniseed and a hint of spicy oak. Nice concentration and balance with some brightness. The fruit wins over the oak in the end. 93/100
Domaine des Carabiniers Lirac Blanc 2022
13% alcohol. 50% Grenache Blanc and equal parts Roussanne and Viognier, biodynamically farmed. This has a distinctive creamy, dairy quality under the bright pear and citrus fruit with some buttery notes that are a bit of a distraction from the lovely fruit quality. But this is fine and fresh with white peach and crystalline citrus fruit. 90/100
Syrah (tank sample from 2023, IGP)
Fresh and bright with notes of olive, pepper and red and black cherries. Very easy to drink with some violet floral notes and fine-grained structure. Lively with a bit of green. 12.5% alcohol. 92/100
Domaine des Carabiniers Zero Primeur 2023 Côtes du Rhône
Sans sulfites ajoutés. [No added SO2.] Compact and peppery with nice depth of fresh raspberry and cherry fruit, with fine peppery notes. Fruity, juicy and vivid. They start one tank carbonic and flood it with CO2, and then use the CO2 from this tank when fermentation begins to fill the other tanks before they receive grapes. 91/100
Domaine des Carabiniers Lirac Rouge 2021
13% alcohol. A blend of biodynamically farmed Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah. Focused with keen acidity supporting the bright cherry and raspberry fruit, with some stewed strawberry and dried herbs in the mix. Quite tart, balancing sweet fruit with savoury elements. Juicy, vivid and linear with nice acidity. 91/100
Domaine des Carabiniers Lirac Rouge 2023 (from tank)
Vibrant and juicy with some spicy peppery detail. Very expressive with supple green hints and a core of sweet raspberry and cherry fruit. Great focus here. 94/100
Domaine des Carabiniers Lirac Cuvée 2023 (from tank, this will be a special cuvée, as yet unnamed)
Concentrated, intense and powerful with sweet black cherry fruits. Notes of olive, spice, herbs and sweet black fruits. Some alcoholic warmth (15.8%) but it works, and has notes of liquorice and salt, and some pepper. 95/100
Domaine des Carabiniers Cuvée Speciale 2021
This hasn’t been named or sold yet. Complex, spicy and grainy. Nicely concentrated with rich black cherry and blackberry fruit. Lovely fruit intensity here with some grip and detail. Smoke, spice and pepper savoury notes add complexity, as well as notes of liqourice and wax. 94/100
BIODYNAMIC WINE SARL
4976 RN 580 30150 Roquemaure
+33 (0)4 66 82 62 94
contact@biodynamicwine.bio
EXPLORING LIRAC
