Highlights: Querciabella Chianti Classico 2017 Tuscany, Italy

This is Sangiovese from Greve, Radda and Gaiole, biodynamically farmed, made by Querciabella. The Greve vineyards are sandstone and sand from decomposition of galestro. They have more clay at lower altitudes (350–400 m) and are rockier as they progress to 550 m. In Radda, there’s more galestro slate (thus more tannin and darker fruit). In Gaiole (500 m) they are rich in calcium carbonate and give riper fruit and more acidity – the limestone-based rocks are called Albarese. Grapes are picked into small crates and then destemmed, not crushed, and aged in 225 and 500 litre barrels, 10% new.

Querciabella Chianti Classico 2017 Tuscany, Italy
13.5% alcohol. First made in 1974, this is 100% Sangiovese from biodynamically farmed vineyards (since 2000, organic since 1988). Cherry red in colour, this is a really beautiful expression of Sangiovese with fine cherry, redcurrant and berry fruit, a dusty tannic structure, as well as notes of leather, juniper and dried herbs. There are lovely contrasts here between the fine, floral silky red fruits and the fairly substantial structure from the tannins and acidity. Such finesse, and quite a bit of ageing potential. It’s not an easy wine, nor is it seductive, but it has beauty. 94/100 (UK agent: Armit)

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