Highlights: Champagne Alfred Gratien NV
Champagne Alfred Gratien NV France
12.5% alcohol. Gratien is a small house of around 300 000 bottles a year, and is owned by Henkell, the big sparkling wine producer from Germany. It is unusual in that it matures all its base wines in barrel, most of which come from the Chablisienne cooperative after around four uses. 50% Chardonnay with the balance equal proportions Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. No malolactic here, one third reserve wines from the previous year, and a dosage of 9 g/litre. Ageing is around four years on lees and this bottle was disgorged in March 2024. This is really bright and energetic with lively lemony fruit, a touch of pear, keen acidity and very subtle toast and nut characters. Pristine and focused with nice brightness and a long, finely spiced, slightly salty finish. A really impressive non-vintage blend with real character, and the sweetness from the dosage complements the high acidity well. I wonder what this would be like with a lower dosage? 93/100
