UK/English sparkling wine: a major study
UK sparkling wine (almost all of which is from England) is at a very interesting phase. There are now lots of producers making impressive wines, and the vineyard area has increased considerably over recent decades, resulting in a boost in production. Quality has never been higher, but it could be argued that the market has never been more competitive, or tougher – although this is a problem faced by all wines, not just English ones.
Here are my notes from a major walkaround tasting of Brit fizz held at the Institute of Masters of Wine in January 2024. In all, I tasted and took notes on 53 wines, but I missed a couple out through lack of time. These wines were chosen by English wine expert Stephen Skelton on the basis of gold medals in competitions run by WineGB, Decanter and the IWSC. I guess this is one way to do it. Notes are in alphabetical order by winery.
Ashling Park Cuvée NV England
12% alcohol. A blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier. Rs 8.1 g/l. Powerful, lively and toasty with broad flavours, including citrus, green apple and peach. 89/100
Ashling Park Sparkling Rosé NV England
12% alcohol. A blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier. Rs is 4.8 g/l. Orange/yellow in colour. Powerful, spicy and lime with some orange peel and almond. Lots of flavour here. 89/100
Balfour Winery Balfour Brut Rosé 2018 Kent, England
12% alcohol. 41% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay. Rs 5.6 g/l. Lovely fruit here: bright, pure and linear with a hint of cherry and nice citrus drive. Really expressive and balanced. 93/100
Breaky Bottom Cuvée Reynolds Stone 2010 Sussex, England
12% alcohol. 7 years on lees, rs 5.2 g/l. This is 70% Chardonnay with the balance Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in equal parts. Expressive and lively, this is a really impactful wine. Intense with high acidity and pithy limey fruit. Powerful. Not subtle, but quite lovely. 93/100
Bride Valley Crémant NV Dorset, England
12% alcohol. 59% Chardonnay, 27% Pinot Meunier, 14% Pinot Noir. Residual sugar 10.6 g/l. Lively with nice precision showing pure citrus fruit and a nice acid line. Notes of green apple and lime. 90/100
Bride Valley Rosé Bella 2018 Dorset, England
12.5% alcohol. 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Meunier. Herby and stony with a green edge to the fruit. Tight and compressed. 86/100
Camel Valley Pinot Noir Rosé Brut 2020 England
12.5% alcohol. 100% Pinot Noir, rs 12 g/l. Nice fruit here: linear and pure with a hint of cherry and some apple, with lovely citrus purity. Fruit driven and expressive. 92/100
Candover Brook Brut NV England
12% alcohol. 58% Chardonnay, 28% Pinot Noir, 14% Pinot Meunier. Rs 5.75 g/l. Nice acid line. This is pure and focused with nice linear citrus fruit and a good acid line. 90/100
Candover Brook Brut Rosé NV England
12% alcohol. 55% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir, 12% Pinot Meunier. Rs 9 g/litre. Subtle toast with nice purity to the cherry and lemon fruit, with some pear, too. Fruit driven and nicely textured. 91/100
Castle Brook Vineyard Blanc de Blancs 2015 England
12% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay, rs 7.7 g/l. Powerful and vivid. Intense. Nice brightness with lovely vivid citrus fruit as well as some toasty notes. Creamy undercurrents. 89/100
Castle Brook Vineyards Classic Cuvée 2017 England
12% alcohol. 43% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 22% Pinot Meunier. Rs 8.6 g/l. Lively, bright and intense with nice pure fruit and some subtle toasty notes. Good concentration with a nice acid line. 88/100
Chapel Down Grand Reserve 2018 England
12% alcohol. 60% Chardonnay, 28% Pinot Noir, 12% Pinot Meunier. 7 g/l rs. Bright and expressive with nice fruit: pear, citrus and white peach. Very subtle toast. Nicely focused. 91/100
Chapel Down Rosé NV England
12% alcohol. This is 62% Chardonnay, 24% Pinot Noir, 9% Pinot Meunier, 3% Pinot Blanc, 2% Fruhburgunder. 27% reserve wines, rs 8 g/l. Very pale pink in colour, this is juicy, linear and focused with some cherry, pear and lime fruit. Pure with good acidity. 90/100
Denbies Estate Greenfields NV England
12% alcohol. 56% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay, 12% Pinot Meunier. Rs 10 g/l. Pure and fruity with nice pear and citrus fruit with a touch of spice. Nice acidity here: this is linear and focused with nice fruit. 90/100
Denbies Estate Cubitt Blanc de Blancs 2016 Surrey, England
12% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay. Rs 8 g/l. Cream and toast notes as well as citrus and pear with nice depth to the sweet citrus fruit. There are also some waxy hints with some almond and pear complexity. 92/100
Digby Fine English Vintage Reserve Brut 2013 England
12% alcohol. 65% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier. Rs 8g/l. Powerful and intense with bright citrus and lime, with a hint of honey and nuts. Powerful with good acidity and lovely intensity. 92/100
Digby Fine English Blanc de Blancs Brut 2013 England
12% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay. Rs 6.5 g/l. Intense and lively with powerful citrus fruit showing subtle toastiness and keen acidity. Bright and intense, finishing fruit forward. 92/100
The Grange Hampshire Classic NV England
12% alcohol. This has 21% reserve wine in the blend and is a blend of the three classic varieties, rs 9 g/l. Fruity and bright with some fine toasty notes. Good precision here with bright citrus, pear and white peach fruit. 92/100
Greyfriars Vineyard Cuvée Royale 2016 England
12% alcohol. 50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay, rs 7.5 g/l. Complex, fine and toasty with nice depth of sweet citrus fruit. Has good intensity and an appealing texture. 93/100
Greyfriars Vineyard Blanc de Blancs 2015 England
12% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay. Overtly toasty and lively with a nice intensity. Shows powerful citrus fruit and some creamy hints, with high acidity. 91/100
Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs Selhurst Park Vineyard 2018 England
12% alcohol. Rs 3.3 g/l. Taut and complex with rich citrus and pear fruit with some toastiness. Lively and intense with nice complexity. Overtly toasty and buscuitty with real harmony. Needs time. 93/100
Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs 2018 England
12% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay, rs 11.6 g/l. Nice complexity here: fruit driven and bold with intense citrus fruit and some well integrated toasty characters. Bold but balanced with a good acid line. 94/100
Hambledon Vineyard Première Cuvée NV Hampshire, England
67% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Meunier, 11% Pinot Noir. 2.5 g/l rs. Complex, toasty and lively with some herbs and a nice touch of cooked cabbage. Very expressive. There’s good acidity, and it’s fruity and intense with a nice linear quality. Bold with high acidity. 93/100
Hambledon Vineyard Première Cuvée Rosé NV Hampshire, England
12% alcohol. Based on 2016 with some reserve from a perpetual reserve and barrels. Saignée method, with 87.5% Pinot Meunier, 10.4% Pinot Meunier and 5.2% Pinot Noir. Rs 5 g/l. Full orange/pink in colour. Nice intensity here with cherries, herbs, cabbage and spice, as well as some creamy hints. Bold limey finish with nice intensity. Distinctive style. 93/100
Harrow & Hope Blanc de Blancs 2018 England
12% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay, rs 6.2 g/l. Fine and delicate with lovely crystalline citrus fruit and subtle toast and nut complexity, as well as some richness to the fruit. Very fine, with a touch of almond in the mix. 93/100
Harrow & Hope Blanc de Noirs 2019 England
12% alcohol. 100% Pinot Noir, rs 5.6 g/l. Fine, fresh and chiselled with lovely fruit: pear, cherry and citrus with nice acidity. Lovely purity here, showing amazing fruit. 94/100
Hattingley Valley Wines Blanc de Blancs 2015
12% alcohol. Residual sugar 8.5 g/l. Powerful and intense with lovely citrus fruit as well as some apple and pear, as well as almonds and a touch of honey. Slight dairy twist on the finish with high acidity. 92/100
Hattingley Valley Wines Classic Reserve NV England
12% alcohol. 2018 base with 36% reserve wines from previous vintages. 47% Chardonnay, 32% Pinot Noir, 19% Pinot Meunier, 2% Pinot Precoce (Fruhburgunder). Rs 6.4 g/l. Lovely fruit here, as well as subtle toast, spice, nuts and good acidity. There’s a hint of cherry. Nice purity here with good balance. It’s quite vinous, and finishes sweet. 93/100
Henners Vintage 2018 England
12% alcohol. 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir. Hazelnut and almond edge to the lovely pure, vivid citrus fruit. There’s a hint of green apple, too. Really expressive. 92/100
Henners Brut Rosé NV England
12% alcohol. This says non vintage but it’s 100% 2018. 65% Pinot Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir, rs 6 g/l. Sappy green edge to the nose as well as some pure citrus fruit with a touch of cherry. Lovely balance here. 91/100
High Clandon Estate The Gloriana Cuvée Prestige 2018 England
12% alcohol. 57% Chardonnay, 27% Pinot Noir, 17% Pinot Meunier. Rs 9 g/l. Lively, linear and bright with nice pure lemony fruit and a subtle toastiness. There’s a slight sweetness on the finish. 89/100
Hundred Hills Rosé de Saignée 2018 England
12% alcohol. 100% Pinot Noir, clone 115. Rs 6 g/l. A very distinctive oaky pink fizz. Almonds and cherries on the nose. Powerful palate has some woody notes giving a savoury twist. Bright, intense, lively and distinctive. 92/100
Hundred Hills Blanc de Noirs 2019 England
12% alcohol. 100% Pinot Noir, clone 870. Rs 5 g/l. Fruity and lively with nice pear and cherry notes as well as some bright lemons. Nice fruit focus here with presence and brightness. 91/100
Langham Estate Pinot Noir 2019 Dorset, England
12% alcohol. 100% Pinot Noir, zero dosage (rs 1 g/l). So fine and pure with subtle toast. Bright and vivid showing cherry and citrus fruit. Textural with nice complexity, and lovely intensity, showing real personality. 94/100
Langham Estate Blanc de Blancs NV Dorset, England
12% alcohol. 61% 2019 and 39% 2018. Rs 2.7 g/l (dosage is 1.5 g/l). Beautiful complexity here, but also a youthful vitality. Incisive, with sweet citrus fruit and a hint of apple, as well as appealing pithy hints and some herbal complexity. 94/100
Nutbourne Vineyards Nutty Vintage 2018 England
12% alcohol. 70% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Blanc, 15% Chardonnay. Rs 6 g/l. Bright, linear and fruit drive with appealing citrus fruit. Pretty and expressive with some cherry and plum notes. Focused and very fruity. 89/100
Nyetimber Classic Cuvée NV England
12% alcohol. 50% Chardonnay, 34% Pinot Noir, 16% Pinot Meunier. Rs 9.5 g/l. This is very stylish with subtle toast and cream with a hint of appealing cabbage fruit. Good acidity with lovely pure citrus fruit and some green apple. Very expressive with real character and finesse. 93/100
Raimes Family Vineyard Blanc de Blancs 2018 Hampshire, England
12% alcohol. Rs 5 g/l. Lively, bright, pure and taut with nicely complex citrus fruit. Really linear with good acidity and purity. 92/100
Ridgeview Estate Oak Reserve NV Hampshire, England
12% alcohol. This is a blend of 44% 2016, 35% 2017 and 21% 2015. Rs 9 g/l. Complex with almonds, hazelnut and some wood spice notes alongside the bright citrus fruit. Nice complexity here: it’s really distinctive with quite a contribution from the oak. But it works. 93/100
Ridgeview Estate Rosé de Noirs 2018 Sussex, England
12% alcohol. 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier. Rs 9.5 g/l. Lovely bright fruit here: pure with good lemony detail and some toast and spice. Good balance and weight in the mouth with some richness, and notes of cherry and sweet plum too. 93/100
Roebuck Estates Classic Cuvée 2017 England
12% alcohol. 44% Pinot Noir, 42% Chardonnay, 16% Pinot Meunier, rs 9.3 g/l. Lovely fruit presence here. Bright and linear with good acidity, showing bright citrus fruit, including some mandarin. Fine toastiness. 92/100
Roebuck Estates Blanc de Noirs 2015 England
Lovely depth here. Toasty and broad with some nice lemon and manadarin notes, as well as pear and red cherry. Nicely complex and shows good acidity. 93/100
Simpsons Wine Estate White Cliffs Blanc de Blancs 2018 Kent, England
12.5% alcohol. 100% Chardonnay. Rs 6 g/l. Fine toasty aromatics with some sweet citrus. The palate is fruity and open with pear and white peach fruit, as well as some fine toast and some creamy detail. Very accessible and delicious. 92/100
Simpsons Wine Estate Chalklands Vintage Reserve 2019 Kent, England
12.5% alcohol. 40% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Meunier. Rs 2.1 g/l. Lively and bright with a herby edge to the sweet pear and cherry fruit, with some nice citrus. Pure and quite linear. 91/100
Squerryes Estate Blanc de Blancs 2015 England
12% alcohol. Rs 7.5 g/l. Lively and bright with good acidity and subtle creaminess. Nice fruit presence here: crystalline and quite long with some toasty notes. 92/100
Sugrue South Downs Cuvée Boz Blanc de Blancs Coldharbour Vineyard 2016 England
12% alcohol. Rs 8 g/l. Lively aromatics here of apple, pear and lemon. The palate is powerful and concentrated, and fruit driven, with pure citrus fruits, a touch of pear and a hint of rhubarb. Very expressive and bold. 95/100
Wiston Estate Library Collection Blanc de Blancs 2010 England
12% alcohol. Rs 8 g/l. Refined toasty nose leads to a lively palate with great acidity and lovely complexity. Notes of peach, toast and lime with some creamy depth. Complex and lively. 93/100
Wiston Estate Rosé 2018 England
12% alcohol. 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier. Rs 7.9 g/l. Deep pink/orange in colour. Powerful and lively with cherry and redcurrant flavours, as well as some grapefruit. Lots of intensity here. 92/100
Woodchester Valley Rosé Brut NV England
12% alcohol. Base wine 2020 (72%) with some 2019 and 2018. 63% Pinot Noir, 23% Pinot Meunier, 14% Chardonnay. Rs 8g/l. Lovely weight. Very fruity with pear, peach and citrus notes. Has good acidity. Lively and bright with nice acidity and some sweetness to the fruit. 90/100
Woodchester Valley Reserve Cuvée NV England
12% alcohol. Base wine 2019 (71%) with 29% 2018 as a reserve wine. 54% Pinot Noir, 38% Chardonnay, 8% Pinot Meunier. Fresh and fruity with subtle pear skin and toast, as well as a touch of apple. Lovely purity and fruit here. 89/100
Wyfold Vineyard Rosé 2018 England
12% alcohol. 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier. Rs 7.4 g/l. Fresh, pure and bright with a nice open toasty edge to the pleasant citrus fruit. This has a sense of harmony and purity with a touch of creaminess and some richness. 91/100
Wyfold Vineyard Brut 2017 England
12% alcohol. 50% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier. 8.5 g/l rs. Lovely fruit here: rounded sweet cherries and pear and a hint of sweetness. Lovely fruit expression. Rounded. 90/100
