Discovering the Mâconnais (10) Domaine du Bicheron
Website: https://www.domainedubicheron.com/en/
Bicheron is quite a big producer based in the in the Mâconnais, making 170 000 bottles under their own label, but selling a third of what they make as must to the negociant Jean Loron.
We met with Geneviève Delbecq whose brother Denis Rousset makes the wines. They have 21 hectares of Perrone, 19 hectares of Azé, then 3.5 hectares for Crémant and 3.25 hectares of Pinot Noir. And some others, because their total vineyard size is 53 hectares.
The winery has some old-fashioned touches: old tanks of the sort you don’t see any more, including horizontal fibreglass fermenters that are now used just to store wine before bottling.
THE WINES
Domaine du Bicheron Mâcon-Péronne Cuvée Quercus 2022
Nice texture here with bright citrus and pear fruit with some nice grainy, chalky detail. Lovely fruit with some lightness and a fine, subtly spicy finish with a touch of salinity. 92/100
Domaine du Bicheron Mâcon-Peronne Vieilles Vignes 2022
Average 80 years old. This is really nicely textured white with white peach and some pear, with nice intensity to the fruit. There’s a fine spicy line on the finish. Very stylish. 92/100
Domaine du Bicheron Viré-Clessé Vielles Vignes 2023
Old vines around 80. This has nice intensity of fruit with good acidity supporting the pure, bright citrus and pear fruit. Linear and direct with nice freshness and intensity. Has a juicy undercurrent. Very fresh and expressive. 91/100
Domaine du Bicheron Mâcon-Lugny 2021
From Acacia barrels. This is bright with a nice spicy edge to the lemony fruit. This is energetic with a nice spicy complexity, showing lemon and a bit of pear. Very stylish with some saltiness on the finish. 91/100
Domaine du Bicheron Mâcon-Pérrone Eleve en fut de chene 2021
Some nutty spicy notes behind the ripe cherry and pear fruit with a touch of aniseed in the background. Finishes spicy. 88/100
Domaine du Bicheron Crémant de Bourgogne Extra Brut NV
24 months on lees, 100% Chardonnay. Less than 2 g/l dosage. Pithy, tart and fruity with high acidity and lemony fruit. Some salty notes with nice brightness on the finish. Pure and lively. 89/100
Domaine du Bicheron Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022
This has been barrel aged in used oak for a year. Nice fresh cherry and plum fruit with a bit of grip. There’s a nice ease and elegance here, finishing with a hint of wood spice and a nice acid line. Has a twist of gravel and spice on the finish. 89/100
Represented by Honest Grape, The Wine Company in the UK
