A mini-Riesling study: Australia, New Zealand, Germany
These four samples were at hand, so I did a taste and compare. Riesling is such a singular variety. I don’t think there are many grape varieties that are quite so distinctive. It’s also quite polarising: some people love it; some hate it. But we need more of these varieties, I think. My favourite here was the Henschke, but I also really liked the Oatley from Western Australia.
Robert Oatley Signature Series Great Southern Riesling 2021 Western Australia
12% alcohol. This is lively and limey with really pronounced aromatics, as well as some fine spicy notes. In the mouth this is crisp and structured with zippy acidity and just a hint of smokiness, with a long, spicy, slightly sour finish that works well. I love the energy here. 92/100
Shieferkopf Riesling Trocken Sec 2023 Baden, Germany
12% alcohol. This is from the Chapoutier stable. There’s some ripe yellow plum and apricot detail as well as keen lemony fruit here, with a zesty citrus pith framing to the fruit. It’s quite stony and vivid, with a tingling lemony finish. I like the brightness, and also the range of fruit flavours expressed here. 90/100
Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling 2023 Marlborough, New Zealand
11.5% alcohol. Light and juicy with zesty citrus fruit and a hint of mandarin. This is a supple, dry Riesling with a light body and good acidity. Has some delicacy and a little lime peel ripple on the finish. Plenty of Riesling character here, finishing juicy. 89/100
Henschke Julius Riesling 2024 Eden Valley, Australia
11% alcohol. This is a lovely dry Riesling, with keen acidity providing a backbone on which there’s some nice yellow fruit flesh, some citrus, and then some fine chalky texture. This is delicate and fine with a real sense of finesse. With a wine this dry, there’s nowhere to hide for the fruit here, which is pristine and pure. Still quite primary, this has a long life ahead of it. 93/100
