Exploring Bulgarian wine (4) Château Burgozone
Website: https://www.burgozone.bg/en/
Burgozone is a family-owned winery that began in 2000. They have a sizeable 100 hectares of vines looking over the Danube river, which borders the estate. The soils here are deep loess, which allows the roots to go down as far as 7 metres in some parts of the vineyard. There’s quite a bit of subterranean water for them to find.
Jean Pierre and Jean Marie at Guillaume Pepeneriste have been helping them understand what they have in their vineyard, with lots of crosses abandoned 20 years ago, as well as Gamza and Merlot. They have also helped them with new clones: they were the first to plant 5 clones of Chardonnay, 4 clones of Pinot Noir, plus Marselan, Viognier and a teinturier called ‘A Secret’. This is Giodola, a cross made in 1954 between Fer Servadou and Abourio. They are the only ones with this is Bulgaria. They also have a pure clone of Gamza (many Gamza vines here are actually crosses), and Tamiyanka.
60% of the grapes are white, and they only work with estate-grown grapes. The grapes are harvested in small crates and are sorted. All the whites are made in stainless steel tanks sur lie, with no oak.
Viognier is a difficult grape to grow which ripens quickly and so picking time is important. It’s impossible to sell in Bulgaria. When they began, Bulgaria was just Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and what Burgozone was doing was seen as quite different. They say it’s even hard to sell Chardonnay here, which is their signature grape.
In the vineyard they allow cover crops to grow, and aren’t afraid of competition because of the innate fertility of the loess soils. They are near the river, which makes it too humid for organics. They don’t use pesticides, though. The Chardonnay has been converted from cane pruning to cordon, which they say is better for this vineyard with these soils.
THE WINES
Burgozone Fort Sauvignon Blanc 2023
In the UK Fort is known as Côte de Danube. Clean and fruity with nice pear, a touch of passionfruit, and some melony richness with good acidity. Has nice volume in the mouth with nice rich fruit on the midpalate. 88/100
Burgozone Fort Chardonnay Tamyanka 2023
The idea was to introduce Tamyanka to international markets by pairing it with a famous variety. This is pure, zesty and bright with keen acidity and nice focus. So expressive and fruit-driven, with the grapey richness of the Tamyanka moderated by the citrus and pear of the Chardonnay. 90/100
Via Istrum Chardonnay 2023 Danube Plain, Bulgaria
14% alcohol. This is bright and fruit driven with nice weight, showing apple, pear and lemon fruit with a hint of tropical richness and some table grape. Nice concentration and good acidity with some richness. A lovely unoaked style of Chardonnay. 90/100
Bugozone Single Vineyard Collection Burgozone Tamyanka 2023 Danube Plain, Bulgaria
13.5% alcohol. This is a variety from the Muscat family, and Bright and energetic with lively lemon and mandarin fruit as well as some rich table grape character. Bold and characterful with nice freshness and a detailed spicy finish. Lovely brightness. 92/100
Burgozone Collection Burgozone Chardonnay Barrique 2022 Danube Plain, Bulgaria
14% alcohol. This their only oak aged white, and it is barrel-fermented and spends five months in oak. The oak is quite dominant with a savoury woody edge under the citrus and pear fruit. Savoury and spicy with a gastronomic quality, but the oak is quite intense. 89/100
Burgozone Collection Burgozone Eva Cuvée Blanc 2023 Danube Plain, Bulgaria
13.5% alcohol. Chardonnay, Viognier and Tamyanka. Bright, intense, very fruity but also quite complex and layered, with orange peel, lemon and pear fruit with nice detail and intensity. Lovely balance and concentration to this wine which shows some spice on the finish, and some table grape richness on the mid-palate. 92/100
Burgozone Collection Burgozone Gamza 2023 Danube Plain, Bulgaria
13.5% alcohol. This is aged in Bulgarian oak. Gamza comes from the Strandja Mountains and it’s connected to Pascarasci (?) which is its father. They have worked hard to isolate a pure clone of Gamza (pronounced ‘gumzar’). It’s a challenging thin-skinned grape. This is bright with lovely red fruits and nice energy and acidity, showing cherry and strawberry with a bit of spice, and then some savoury oak notes adding spicy framing and shortening the finish a bit. I’d love this without the oak. 90/100
Bugozone Collection Burgozone Eva Cuvée Rouge 2022
14.5% alcohol. A blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Gamza and Egiodola. This is powerful and dense with lovely grippy yet sleek black fruits and then some red fruit brightness. Bold and sweetly fruited, but with good structure and a kiss of spicy oak on the finish. Lovely fruit here. 92/100
Burgozone Via Istrum Pinot Noir 2022
This is sweetly fruited and quite dense with red cherries and plums, with some spicy detail and a touch of sweet oak. Nice richness and a bit of sweetness to both the fruit and the oak. 87/100
Burgozone Via Istrum Cabernet Franc 2022
15% alcohol. This is rich and dense, but also has some freshness. Rich spice under the sweet strawberry and cherry fruit, with a cedary, spicy edge to the fruit from the oak. Bold and sweetly fruited with a slightly stewed character. 88/100
Burgozone Via Istrum Marselan 2022
15% alcohol. This is rich, ripe and spicy with bold cherry and berry fruits, with lovely sweetness to the fruit. Very rich and textural with some sweetness from the alcohol but also some residual sugar (7 g/l). 87/100
Burgozone Via Istrum Esperanto 2021
13.5% alcohol. CS, CF, Syrah and Gamza. Bright and vivid with sweet cherries, strawberries and herbs. Has a savoury bite that counters the sweet fruit. Finishes slightly bitter with a herby, tarry edge. 88/100
Burgozone Collection Burgozone Iris Cuvée Rouge 2022
14.5% alcohol. A red blend. This is bright and nicely savoury with some spicy detail under the rich blackberry and black cherry fruit with some tar, dried herbs and sour cherry. Grippy finish. Nice sweet fruit here, with some savoury counter. 90/100
EXPLORING BULGARIAN WINE
- Introduction
- Tipchenitza Winery
- The Jolly Vintners
- Château Burgozone
- Bononia Estate
- Magura
- Katarzyna Wine
- Villa Melnik
- Aya Estate
- Other wines tasted
