Vite Maritata: growing vines on trees, and tasting the Lèmme Lèmme from Buondomo
It was a real treat to taste this wine while I was in Tuscany, having seen one of the vineyards it comes from, planted at extremely low density with the vines tresllised on maple trees, an old way of growing vineyards called vite maritata. This was introduced to Italy by the Etruscans, and was also popular in France before phylloxera. It allowed farmers to grow vines alongside other crops, and also animals. In Portugal’s Minho region this also occurred, and there you can still find lots of small holdings with the vines trellised at height along pergolas around the perimeter, with the rest of the ground clear for cultivating other crops.
The painting above is from 1893 – the vine harvesting party by Florentine artist Raffaello Sorbi, showing the vite maritata of the Tuscan countryside.
There’s a wonderfully detailed article on the practice here: https://www.guadoalmelo.it/en/wine-and-the-etruscan-ii-the-married-vine-three-thousand-and-more-years-of-viticulture-and-art/
Buondommo Lèmme Lèmme 2019 IGT Toscana, Italy
14% alcohol. This is mixed plantings, grown on maple trees, with vines planted in the 1930s to 1950s that have survived modernization. It’s a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Black Malvasia, Colorino and other varieties, planted at a density of 500 vines per hectare. Aged for a year in 400 litre Clayver vessels (ceramic). Fresh and focused with bright cherry and raspberry fruit. Quite open with juicy red cherry and redcurrant fruit, showing freshness and focus. This is juicy and expressive, and nicely linear with purity to the fruit, and an appealing stony edge. 94/100
