Slovenia: Domaine Slapšak with François Botton, who traded Champagne dreams for Dolejnska
Website: https://www.domaine-slapsak.com/en/
François Botton is French, and hails from the Champagne region. But he didn’t grow up in a Champagne family: his family were from the dairy industry and didn’t have any vineyards. But François fell in love with Champagne, and studied the subject in Reims. Each year 20 budding winemakers take part in a masters degree on Champagne production. ‘When you are part of this 20 you are on the radar of the producers,’ he says. He went on to work with Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon at Roederer, possibly the most widely respected of all chefs du caves, and did two vintages with him. ‘This guy is impressive,’ says François. ‘He really took time with me.’
There he met his wife, Urška, who is Slovenian. [You can probably see where this is going.] After graduation she went on vacation and spent two years in Champagne. After this, Francois got a job working between Champagne and California with a company providing enological products (Laffort), and he was tasked with developing the business in California. He spent three years doing this until Urška took a job in Slovenia and he followed her here. François proposed to his company that he should develop the Central/Eastern European business for Laffort.
And this is where he left behind his dream of being a Champagne winemaker. This must have been quite a tough choice to make.
So François has kept the day job with Laffort, but he also saw an opportunity in his adopted home. His parents in law, Martin and Tanja had a small winery. And they were growing a very interesting variety. Žametna Črnina. This is the variety that is the world’s oldest vine, growing in Maribor, and it’s the main variety at Slapšak. There are 1200 hectares of this vine in the Dolejnska region where he works. This is an ideal grape for sparkling wine production and has the capacity to produce high end wines. It’s a late cycle variety that ripens late and doesn’t have too much alcohol, even if it’s picked in October.
François brought his Champagne know-how and together with his brothers in law Matej and Andrej he set up a Champagne-like sparkling wine house. He says he was lucky enough to find a location that was unique. Slapšak is based in the Dolejnska region, between two ranges of mountains, one of which forms the border with Croatia. This protects against the Mediterranean climate, while the other protects against the continental climate. This climatic corridor is very specific.
The first wines were made in 2009, and in 2011 he began planting Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but isn’t super happy with how these perform. It took seven years to get the range to where it is now. One third is made from the 3 hectares of owned vineyards, and then the rest is purchased grapes. Production is 45 000 bottles a year.
François does 100% Malolactic fermentation, and he values time on cork as well as tirage.
THE WINES
Domaine Slapšak Brut Rosé NV
The base wine is 2020 with some 2019 reserve wine. It’s 100% Žametna Črnina. Dosage 4.3 g/l. 15-20 months on lees, with a higher proportion of the taille which is much fruitier (this is fined with potato protein – he only fines the must). This is fine and delicate with bright citrus and redcurrant fruit. Very pure and bright with a very fine crystalline quality to the fruit. This has keen acidity but it integrates well. So elegant with a crispness and detail on the finish. A vertical wine. 92/100
Domaine Slapšak Brut Reserve NV
12% alcohol. This is 50% of production. When he does the blends, lots of energy goes into this. 35-40% of reserve wine, base is 2021. Dosage is 1 g/l. Žametna is dominant at around 60%, then the rest is Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. Three years on lees. Taut and focused with a chiselled citrus core and then a twist of cherry and aniseed, and a touch of lemon meringue. Linear and bright with appealing citrus fruit at its core and good energy, finishing brisk and alert. Primary and showing keen acidity. 92/100
Domaine Slapšak Brut Nature ZC NV
This is Žametna Črnina mostly from limestone soil. This is crisp, energetic and focused with lively citrus fruit and a touch of redcurrant, with great purity and elegance. So fine with a zesty edge to the fruit. Such precision with keen acidity. Lovely purity here, showing elegance and focus. 93/100
Domaine Slapšak Blanc de Blancs NV (magnum)
2018 with 5% of 2017. This is a plot selection of Chardonnay. 66 months on lees in magnum. 2.4 g/l dosage. Pristine, crystalline and pure with lovely citrus fruit as well as a hint of white peach richness and some subtle saline notes. So pure and classy with a mineral twist. This is rich but refined with lovely texture and finesse. 94/100
Domaine Slapšak T2016
This is a collection from the house. A prestige cuvée. When he has the base wines when he’s blending he tries to marry his favourite ones, which he leaves in the cellar for a long time. This is 75% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, and it’s vintage 2015 with a bit of 2014 reserve wine. T is for Tirage, in 2016. It was disgorged in March 2022 with a dosage of 2.5 g/l. A honeyed, slightly nutty edge to the apple, pear and lemon fruit on the nose. Very refined. The palate is bright and lemony with a twist of grapefruit and yellow plum, as well as subtle waxy notes. This is beginning to develop some complexity. Lovely acid line here with great focus and purity. Still fresh but developing some extra complexity. 93/100
