North Canterbury, New Zealand (6) Domaine Williams Raillard et B
While I was in North Canterbury I visited a new producer who has yet to release any wines. Next door to Black Estate, Japanese winegrower Masayuki Bunya has a beautiful small vineyard from which he is making deeply impressive Pinot Noir in a new, well equipped winery.
Masa was a finance guy in Tokyo and had his own company, but since 2018 he has focused his energies on his wine project. Before this he gained experience working with Michel Gros in Vosne-Romanée, and then with Meo-Camuzet. ‘I learned about Pinot Noir here,’ he says.
When he decided he’d like to make wine, his first thought was establishing a vineyard in Japan. But he decided he couldn’t make great Pinot Noir here. So he cast his gaze outwards. Central Otago was a possibility, with a good climate, but there’s no clay. He thought about Oregon, and even Burgundy. But finally he chose North Canterbury, and specifically this part of north Canterbury where there’s good clay and limestone.
First vintage was 2019, but this is not released yet. We tasted this, and also the 2020 and 2023 vintages (he made no wine in 2022), the latter in tank and ready for bottling. There’s a breeze on the terrace, and we look over this beautiful hillside of Omihi vines. It’s a special location.
Domaine Williams Raillard et B Pinot Noir 2023 Waipara, North Canterbury, New Zealand
This is a new project from winegrower Masayuki Bunya. Concentrated, showing nice density and some spicy oak. Structured with purity and concentration. Very stylish and intentional. 95/100
Domaine Williams Raillard et B Pinot Noir 2020 Waipara, North Canterbury, New Zealand
100% destemmed. Wonderful floral fruit on the nose with some firm spicy oak. This has grip but also some flesh: sleek cherry and blackberry fruit with fine spicy oak. This is good concentration, structure and purity. Serious effort. 95/100
Domaine Williams Raillard et B Pinot Noir 2019 Waipara, North Canterbury, New Zealand
Debut vintage, not yet to market. 50% whole bunch. This has nice structure and density, with black cherries and blackberries. There’s a taut, earthy, structural savoury edge to the palate. It’s tannic and dense with nice intensity and concentration. 94/100
