Some amazing Spanish wines from Rioja and Sherry: tasting some of the winners from the International Wine Challenge
These are gold medal and trophy winners from the 2025 edition of the International Wine Challenge, which I tasted live on Instagram to explain what it takes to succeed at this industry-leading blind tasting competition. It’s very gratifying to go through the multi-stage judging process and then end up with winners like these. I’ve focused on two of Spain’s leading regions: Rioja and Sherry country. [I’m one of the 6 co-chairs of this competition.]
Tarón Cepas Centenarias 2021 Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain
13.5% alcohol. 100 year old Tempranillo vines. This shows beautifully refined, textured black cherry and blackberry fruit with fine structure and some raspberry brightness. The oak is beautifully integrated and lies beneath the concentrated, refined fruit. Lovely balance and refinement to this wine, which combines power and elegance. 96/100
La Catedral Bodegas Olarra Rioja Reserva 2020 Spain
13.5% alcohol. A blend of Tempranillo, Mazuelo and Graciano. Refined aromatics showing subtle wood spice, a hint of coconut and vanilla, but with the dominant theme being resolved black cherry and blackberry fruit, with a herbal twist. In the mouth this has a complex spicy structure under the fine berry and cherry fruit, with some tannin and plenty of fruit, showing potential for further development even though this is delicious now. 95/100
Con Gracia de Rioja Vega 2020 Rioja, Spain
14% alcohol. This is 100% Graciano. This has nice intensity on the nose with some spicy, woody oak notes supporting vivid raspberry and cherry fruit, showing nice presence. In the mouth this is focused, structured and long, with lots of vibrant raspberry and cherry fruit with a spicy finish. It’s vivid and direct, and the focused fruit keeps pace with the oak. Quite primary still: it will be interesting to see how this evolves. 96/100
Valdemar Balcón de Pilatos Maturana 2022 Rioja, Spain
14.5% alcohol. Maturana is an old drought-resistant variety from Rioja that is now being rescued from near extinction. This is a remarkable wine, with brooding blackberry and blackcurrant fruit as well as herbs and spices, including just a hint of cured meat and roast coffee savouriness. It’s textured, balanced and sleek on the palate, with a wall of rich dark fruits, but it stays fresh and expressive, with olive and meat on the finish. Quite serious, and I think this will develop well in bottle. 96/100
Lustau Botaina Amontillado Edicion Limitada Saca en Rama Abril 2025 NV Spain
20% alcohol. This en rama Amontillado is quite special. Copper/gold in colour it has amazing aromatics of hazelnuts, honey, citrus peel and wood spice, with some tangy apple and citrus fruit. In the mouth it’s dry and intense with a wonderfully spicy, tangy edge to the lemon, apple, hazelnut and herb notes. Finishes juicy, tangy and very long. Quite profound. 97/100
Lustau Añada Vintage Sherry 1995 Jerez, Spain
21.5% alcohol. 100% Palomino, aged in sealed casks for 29 years, this is quite a rarity. It’s not normal to have vintage-dated sherry like this, and sweet sherries are usually part Pedro Ximenez. Lovely concentration, intensity and complexity to this sweet sherry, with notes of raisin, treacle, old wood and rich spiciness. There’s a lot going on here with depth and focus, finishing very spicy and long. Sweet but exquisitely balanced, this is for contemplative sipping. 96/100
