Swartberg Wingerde: the amazing Piekeneerskloof wines of Rudiger Gretschel
Website: https://swartbergwingerde.co.za/
When Rudiger Gretschel (pictured above) was being interviewed for his job with Tim Rands (Boekenhoutskloof et al), he was aksed what he wanted to do. Rudiger’s response was that he wanted to make his own wine, but he wanted to make it from his own vineyard. Which in South Africa means that he needed to own a farm, so this seemed like a dream that was a long way off.
He got the job, and the understanding was that if he could help grow the business, then he’d be supported in his dream. And it did turn out to be quite a long way off. While he was looking to source Grenache to go into the Chocolate Block, he ended up spending quite a bit of time in the Piekeneerskloof. He was smitten, and decided that this was where he wanted to work. Some 18 years prior to realizing his dream he met a farmer there, established a relationship, and when this farmer retired at the age of 84, he sold the farm to Rudiger. This is Swartberg Wingerde, and it is the source of Rudiger’s own wine project.
The farm is 1000 hectares, with 3 hectares of vines. There’s no electricity, and no mobile phone reception. Water comes from two springs. ‘From an energetic viewpoint it is one step past biodynamic viticulture,’ he says. He’s also working with two neighbours to get enough grapes to make the project viable. The first vintage was 2021, and these wines are quite amazing.
Swartberg Wingerde Holism Palomino 2023 Piekeneerskloof, South Africa
1966 own roots. No settling to foudre. Just little sulfites before bottling. Pure, vital, lovely concentrated citrus fruit. White flower, fine spices and nice saltiness. Quite beautiful with real precision. 95/100
Swartberg Wingerde Miracle Bush White 2023 Piekeneerskloof, South Africa
Garnacha Blanc, Chenin Blanc and a bit of Palomino. G in amphora, Chenin used oak. Lovely fruit intensity here with purity and length. Crystalline citrus fruit with amazing purity and focus. Saline with some white pepper and dried herb. Very fine. 96/100
Swartberg Wingerde Holism Garnacha 2024 Piekeneerskloof, South Africa
12.5% alcohol. 1966 and 2010 plantings. Foudre, cement tank and amphora with some foot trodden whole cluster. Fresh, pure and linear with focused red cherry and cranberry fruit, with freshness and purity as well as some nice spicy detail. Quite lovely. 95/100
Swartberg Wingerde Miracle Bush Red 2023 Piekeneerskloof, South Africa
Syrah 2013 Garnacha 1966. Rich and textural but fresh with mint, ginger and aniseed showing lovely ripe cherry and berry fruits with a stony, mineral undercurrent. Rich and layered. 95/100
Swartberg Wingerde Sangiro Piekeneerskloof, South Africa
Rudiger has been making this Pinotage since 2017, and although it isn’t his main focus, it’s a really nice expression of this variety. Fresh and supple with redcurrant and cherry and some spicy oak. Balanced and delicious. 93/100
