Sicus: distinctive low-intervention wines from Catalunya
Website: https://www.dynamicvines.com/producers/sicus
I popped into Dynamic Vines in Bermondsey on a Saturday morning and they were showing the wines of Sicus, an interesting winery based in Bonastre (near Tarrgona in Catalunya, Spain). It’s the project of Eduard Piè.
His focus is on indigenous varieties, organically grown and fermented in amphora (tinajas) made from local clay. Some of these are actually buried in the vineyards. Farming is organic, and the vineyards are no-till. Soils are limestone, and the vines are dry grown.
Sicus Pétillant Naturel A Wine Work Orange (S) 2021
Lively, tangy, bright with some savoury detail. Grippy and phenolic. Quite distinctive and delicious. Wild and structured gently fizzy. 90/100
Sicus Cartoixà Brisat (Orange) 2019
Xarel.lo is the grape variety here. This is bold, fresh, distinctive. Stony edge to the lively citrus fruit. Some orange peel. Bright and tangy with real energy. 94/100
Sicus Sumoi 2021
Single vineyard called ‘El Roldonar’, located at 185m high with a strong maritime influence. Silty soil of calcareous nature. Old vines. Whole bunch fermentation. 3 months in amphora, 5 months stainless steel. Nicely textured, some structure with good acidity too. Some warmth and texture to the cherry fruit. Just 10% alcohol. Nice savoury twist. Very distinctive with a drying finish. 93/100
Sicus Garrut 2019
Single vineyard called ‘La Obaga Del Gojo’, located at 220m with a strong maritime influence. Whole bunch. 2 months in amphora, 6 months in stainless steel. Rich, concentrated, savoury and intense with some grippy structure. Brooding and bold with firm tannins. Very gastronomic. Some texture and warmth. 92/100
