Highlights: A duo of striking reds from 4Kilos

A kilo is old Spanish slang for one million Pesetas, Spain’s former currency. 4 Kilos founders Francesc Grimalt and Sergio Cabellero’s investment of 4 million Pesetas (the equivalent of a modest $35,000 Canadian dollars) founded this now renowned winery. From these humble beginnings they produced their first wine on Mallorca, fermenting in old milk refrigeration units. Officially launching in 2007, they converted that former sheep farm into the 4 Kilos winery. The garagiste operation sources grapes from organic and biodynamically farmed vineyards in northern and southern Mallorca.

4Kilos Wines Gallinas y Focas 2018, Vino de la Tierra Mallorca, Spain
Gallimas y Focas (Hens & Seals) is primarily Manto Negro, with a splash of Syrah, rooted in the region’s red, calcareous iron oxide clay soils known as Call Vermell. This was native fermented in stainless, and aged in older 500L barrels for a year, followed by 6 months in 4000L foudre, and 6 months in bottle. There’s a lovely gentle generosity to the medium bodied palate, with wild plums, wild blackberries, kirsch, violets, pink peppercorns cradled by long, downy tannins through a smouldering, saline finish. The whimsically-labelled bottle is so named because ‘hens are funny and seals clap’. Very unique, and impressive. 92/100

4Kilos 2019, Vino de la Tierra Mallorca, Spain
This, their flagship wine, is 20-45 year old callet vines, indigenous to the island, from various organically farmed plots, each native fermented separately and aged in a mix of stainless and 600L French barrels. This serious, striking Callet, a grape indigenous to Mallorca, rings with minerality, the precision of which sculpts the graceful wild plum, iris, herbal scrub scenting the medium (12% palate). Tannins are long and fine, and acidity is buoyant, carrying this through a haunting, saline finish. This marine charmer carries that magic quality of intensity x lightness of being. Drinking beautifully now, and with time ahead. 94/100

UK agent: Indigo Wine

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Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]