Highlights: Cantina Arceto Migliolungo Lambrusco NV, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

More than 40 different ancient, traditional red grapes go into this Lambrusco, with 21 of these different varieties of Lambrusco alone (!). Lambrusco Oliva, Amabile di Genova, Marzemino, Sgavetta, Corona, Filucca, Uva della Quercia, Termarina Rossa, Uva Tosca, Picol Ross, Scorza Amara, Uva Bisa, Lambrusco Viadanese, and Lambrusco Corbelli are but a few rooted in the calcareous clays of Reggio Emilia. The project to safeguard these ancient varieties was started in 2002, on the farm surrounding the A.Zanelli Institute, where the Emilia Wine co-op of four wineries (including Cantina Arceto) is based. After a soft pressing and 6 days’ maceration, these were fermented in stainless, before heading to the autoclave for secondary ferment. Pouring a hazy, gutsy dark plum hue, this lightly sparkling red pops with tart cassis acidity, pulling wild plum, black cherry, across a dry palate, lashed with black pepper and gripped with fine, thorny tannins. The snappy finish lingers with salinity and perfumed balsamic. Such a lovely, fresh example and gift from these historic varieties. Smart label design too. 90/100

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Treve Ring

Treve Ring is a wine writer and editor, judge and speaker, and perpetual traveller. [She is also Correspondent Anorak.]