Book review: Kristian Kielmayer, The Natural Wines of Hungary
Website: https://kristiankielmayer.com/natural-wines-of-hungary/
The natural wine scene is so interesting. It has also caused a lot of griping in the wine world, with many noted commentators predicting its demise and established winemakers doing an eye roll whenever the subject is raised. But travel to any major city and the short cut to the best gastronomic experiences you’ll have is to see which bars or restaurants have a good, natural-heavy wine list.
That’s why this book is welcome. Kristian Kielmayer is a steady, level headed guide to the emerging Hungarian natural wine scene, and this is a well written and nicely illustrated guide. He begins by discussing general topics such as the history of the natural wine movement, organic and biodynamic viticulture, fermentation, the use of sulfur dioxide, wine faults and how to match wine and food. And there’s an interesting comparison with speciality coffee that fits in well here.
Then we are on to the bulk of the book: the people, the place and the wines. This is a set of in-depth producer profiles. I’ve just come back from Hungary (where I managed to find a few natural wine bars), but next time I travel there, I’ll definitely take this book with me. It’s so useful.
